Door hinge lubrication

[richardw]

My driver's side door hinge has just seized - the top nut now rotates when the door is opened. I know that lubrication of these hinges has been an on and off issue - Lotisbits used to fit a grease nipple to the hinge but told me they don't any longer as they had found greasing was ineffective as it didn't reach the right area. I'm hoping that it's not too late to use penetrating oil to release the hinge pin - can anyone tell me the best way of applying lubricant? If I remove the top nut will that allow the oil to penetrate?

Thanks, Richard

[Hawaiis0]

The grease nipples will fill the void of the waisted hinge pin only. There is no gain other than feeding the lower bush. All the pivoting is done on the top and lower bushes so try apply some penetrating oil on the inside of the hinge brackets where the beam fits into, so it can get to the bush.

[Johnwindwood]

The only real answer is beam removal and fitting of a stainless steel pin from SJ. Done the drivers side on ours already and have bought the pin to do the passenger side during lockdown.

[Pete Boole]

The grease nipples will fill the void of the waisted hinge pin only.

But if you keep pumping the grease has to go somewhere - into the bush area - especially if you rock the door up and down a bit while you do it.

I still think grease nipples on the hinge are a good idea. If the pin or bush had some rifling as well that would improve things further.

Pete

[MetBlue]

Totally agree with Pete. As long as the bearing surface is fluted, there's no reason why this grease nipple should not be a vast improvement. I just happen to have been playing with door beam and hinges all day, so very opportune for a photo.


On a similar subject of adding grease points, I was reading recently on a separate post about adding a grease nipple into the lower spindle on the rear Ali hub. Now that one I don't see the point in. There is no relative movement of the pin to the hub ( It's not meant as a bearing), and even if you fluted the stud (a VERY bad idea - don't do it), you'd still have 90 percent of the circumference in metal to Ali contact. You just can't get the pressure on a grease nipple to get Copper grease into such a large contact area. There is no substitute for this position other than stripping periodically, cleaning and re-assembly with lashings of copper grease.
Tony

[richardw]

Thanks everybody!

I applied regular treatments of penetrating oil during yesterday and will do the same today. I like the alternative engineering solutions but hope I don't have to go there!

Cheers Richard

[AndyLotus]

My passenger door hinge was seized as well. I fitted grease nipples as a last resort before changing the beam. It worked really well.

I kept pumping grease in and also heated the hinge area with a heat gun to make the grease more fluid. (Put some shielding around the door to protect from the heat) I then worked the door open and closed and also lifted it up and down, very little movement mind.

It worked a treat. The door opens so easily now a slight gust of wind will fling it open!

[Pete Boole]

On a similar subject of adding grease points, I was reading recently on a separate post about adding a grease nipple into the lower spindle on the rear Ali hub. Now that one I don't see the point in.

That was me! . See "Embarrassing Revelation". Before I put my brain in gear I'd wrongly assumed that the lower stud acted like it does on the Excel - as a pivot. I can tell I'm getting older/dafter

Pete

[MetBlue]

Sorry to bring it up again.
I see your realisation was back in January, a week or two before my re-awakening from restoration hibernation so I didn't see it.
Glad were on the same page and I wasn't missing something.
Tony