I recently had my 89 SE window lift motors refurbished. Upon fitting them they work fine. The new motors are much stronger than the LOTUS original part.
However, after a few days and for no apparent reason, the Drivers door window stayed down and the 20 amp fuse was blown. The window in the frame slides pretty freely. Further atempts to install new fuses resulted in instant blown fuse. If the lift motor is connected directly to a slave battery it goes up and down very nicely. The passenger side works perfectly. I have swapped the switches over - no difference. The Little I know! it seems like a short circuit somewhere.
So my question is: Has anyone else experienced similar shorting/fuse blowing. For the life of me I cannot identify an obvioius short. Grateful for any help on this one.
Window Lift Motors
Moderator: Board Moderators
Are you connecting the lift motor directly to the battery without a fuse?
If so try putting the fuse in the direct circuit and see if that blows, it could be that the start current of the motor is very high.
Second option is voltage drop in the line may cause the motor to stall as the impedance is too high. A stalled motor will then continue to draw high currents, exit one fuse. Possible cause is the negative return try a tempory link on the negative side back to the battery (i am assuming the switched side is on the positive), if this solves the fuse problem then remake the negative circuit back to a known good earth. Much easier that tracing through the positive side.
If so try putting the fuse in the direct circuit and see if that blows, it could be that the start current of the motor is very high.
Second option is voltage drop in the line may cause the motor to stall as the impedance is too high. A stalled motor will then continue to draw high currents, exit one fuse. Possible cause is the negative return try a tempory link on the negative side back to the battery (i am assuming the switched side is on the positive), if this solves the fuse problem then remake the negative circuit back to a known good earth. Much easier that tracing through the positive side.
On-line parts manual
Full access with a one-off payment of 20GBP. Enter your username and click the button. You will receive a PM with access details, once payment is complete. This is a manual process, please allow 1 or 2 days for access to be granted. Payment will show as Span6. http://www.fromdusktildawn.netMikw et al.
Does anyone have any ideas what other window motors can be adapted to fit, or what other cars they were fitted in. I've got one of the older ones(big black and square), in one side and the smallwer tubular one fitted in the other. I gather that thjese later ones were fitted post '89.
Academic really because neither work. I've tried takingthem apart and rebuilding but I think the coils are gone.They both have sl. different teeth arragement, but I'd like to upgrade or change to a more modern one??????
Terry
Does anyone have any ideas what other window motors can be adapted to fit, or what other cars they were fitted in. I've got one of the older ones(big black and square), in one side and the smallwer tubular one fitted in the other. I gather that thjese later ones were fitted post '89.
Academic really because neither work. I've tried takingthem apart and rebuilding but I think the coils are gone.They both have sl. different teeth arragement, but I'd like to upgrade or change to a more modern one??????
Terry
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amarshall
- Moderator
- Posts: 8296
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 18:09
- Model: SE
- Colour: Monaco White
- Year: 1990
- Location: Darlington
- Contact:
Big black and square sounds a bit like the Jag. motors that were used in Esprits too. I have a couple in the garage. I'll post a photo tonight (if I remember)
https://www.lotusexcel.co.uk/
SORN - just say NO!
SORN - just say NO!
http://www.lotusexcel.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=147terry wrote:Mikw et al.
Does anyone have any ideas what other window motors can be adapted to fit, or what other cars they were fitted in. one??????
Terry
This is where I got mine.
A
-
amarshall
- Moderator
- Posts: 8296
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 18:09
- Model: SE
- Colour: Monaco White
- Year: 1990
- Location: Darlington
- Contact:
Have you checked that they'll run when not connected to the window regulator mechanism ? (i.e. plug them into the loom and see what happens).terry wrote: I've tried takingthem apart and rebuilding but I think the coils are gone.
Have you checked the fuses in case they've blown ?
Are you sure the bushes are OK and seating correctly ?
Are you 100% sure that the magnets are properly stuck to the housing ?
(guess which faults I've seen on my motors ?
)https://www.lotusexcel.co.uk/
SORN - just say NO!
SORN - just say NO!
Turns out that the only thing wrong was age, dust and gunged up bearings etc.
For those of a less mechanical ilk, before you chuck a "duff" motor away try this.
Take out the whole assembly, by unbolting the four bolts to the door beam. Tape the window half up to get at the last bolt and remove.
remove next four bolts to remove backplate and expose another four bolts that fix the actual motor in.
Remove, watch your fingers, the spring is in tension.
Pull out the 2" toothed nylon wheel, from the casing, no fixings, it just pushes in.
Mount in a vice preferably and undo the three long bolts running through the motor casing.
The head of the gear assembly should now come off.
Looking into the motor you can now see the armature, (the middle bit that rotates, the whole of the inside may be black and dusty, it was this that clogged everything up on mine.Blow this out if possible.
carefully remove the small springs that hold the carbon brushes in, push these blocks back.
Push the two spring clips out of thier slots in the casing, and this whole platform comes out, attache by the coil wiring.
Push to one side, pull out armature.
Blow out, clean all parts, be careful, there's a small round phosphor bronze disk in the end of the shaft bush.
Clean and regrease.
Reverse above.
Both of mine now work a treat, it was just the accumulated friction of all the bits, resulting in the motor not turning, and blown fuses.
That's what I like about older cars and older women, ther'e less complicated, cheaper, easier to fix and generally more intelligently engineered, (joke).
Terry
For those of a less mechanical ilk, before you chuck a "duff" motor away try this.
Take out the whole assembly, by unbolting the four bolts to the door beam. Tape the window half up to get at the last bolt and remove.
remove next four bolts to remove backplate and expose another four bolts that fix the actual motor in.
Remove, watch your fingers, the spring is in tension.
Pull out the 2" toothed nylon wheel, from the casing, no fixings, it just pushes in.
Mount in a vice preferably and undo the three long bolts running through the motor casing.
The head of the gear assembly should now come off.
Looking into the motor you can now see the armature, (the middle bit that rotates, the whole of the inside may be black and dusty, it was this that clogged everything up on mine.Blow this out if possible.
carefully remove the small springs that hold the carbon brushes in, push these blocks back.
Push the two spring clips out of thier slots in the casing, and this whole platform comes out, attache by the coil wiring.
Push to one side, pull out armature.
Blow out, clean all parts, be careful, there's a small round phosphor bronze disk in the end of the shaft bush.
Clean and regrease.
Reverse above.
Both of mine now work a treat, it was just the accumulated friction of all the bits, resulting in the motor not turning, and blown fuses.
That's what I like about older cars and older women, ther'e less complicated, cheaper, easier to fix and generally more intelligently engineered, (joke).
Terry