Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
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Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
Hi.
Just fitted rear springs and Protech adjustable dampers ( fronts done few weeks back ) to my 1990 Excel.
To help a little on answering my questions on fitting I have the dampers adjusted to 6 clicks all round and on measuring the old original cupped dampers,
I have set the base of the new ring to 65mm from the centre of the bolt hole on both sides.
I also rolled the car back and forward a few times to settle it.
When I measured the height from the ground to the body at the front of the wheel arch I find that it is 195mm n/s and 180mm o/s which I find quite strange as all four springs/dampers are new.
Also the gap at the top between wheel and arch seems to be large at 105mm n/s and 90mm o/s.
My questions are.
1) Is it ok to adjust the ring down on the n/s by 15mm making it different to the other side.
2) Would that even the both up to 180mm.
3) Would it make the wheel arch gap the same at 90mm.
4) Also are these gaps standard as they look a little large to me.
Hope someone can help.
Regards.
Ian.
Just fitted rear springs and Protech adjustable dampers ( fronts done few weeks back ) to my 1990 Excel.
To help a little on answering my questions on fitting I have the dampers adjusted to 6 clicks all round and on measuring the old original cupped dampers,
I have set the base of the new ring to 65mm from the centre of the bolt hole on both sides.
I also rolled the car back and forward a few times to settle it.
When I measured the height from the ground to the body at the front of the wheel arch I find that it is 195mm n/s and 180mm o/s which I find quite strange as all four springs/dampers are new.
Also the gap at the top between wheel and arch seems to be large at 105mm n/s and 90mm o/s.
My questions are.
1) Is it ok to adjust the ring down on the n/s by 15mm making it different to the other side.
2) Would that even the both up to 180mm.
3) Would it make the wheel arch gap the same at 90mm.
4) Also are these gaps standard as they look a little large to me.
Hope someone can help.
Regards.
Ian.
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
"height from the ground to the body......" Have you checked the ground is true to level and not slightly twisted as is my garage floor?
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
To answer your questions:RED BARON wrote:Hi.
Just fitted rear springs and Protech adjustable dampers ( fronts done few weeks back ) to my 1990 Excel.
To help a little on answering my questions on fitting I have the dampers adjusted to 6 clicks all round and on measuring the old original cupped dampers,
I have set the base of the new ring to 65mm from the centre of the bolt hole on both sides.
I also rolled the car back and forward a few times to settle it.
When I measured the height from the ground to the body at the front of the wheel arch I find that it is 195mm n/s and 180mm o/s which I find quite strange as all four springs/dampers are new.
Also the gap at the top between wheel and arch seems to be large at 105mm n/s and 90mm o/s.
My questions are.
1) Is it ok to adjust the ring down on the n/s by 15mm making it different to the other side.
2) Would that even the both up to 180mm.
3) Would it make the wheel arch gap the same at 90mm.
4) Also are these gaps standard as they look a little large to me.
Hope someone can help.
Regards.
Ian.
1. It does seem odd that you have such a big difference between the two sides. If I were you I'd adjust the rings down to give you better ride height then drive it around a bit. Also you don't need to adust the ring by the same amount as the ride height change; the leverage effect on the rear suspension is such that there is very roughly a 2:1 ratio between ride height adjustment and ring height adjustment.
2. It should do but keep the rings the same level both sides and use the car a bit first
3. Likewise
4. The gaps are too large. As a guideline, SJ recommend the rings are fully wound down to give a standard ride height. On my car this made the ride height too low. I can't access my manual at the moment to find out how to measure the ride height accurately (below the lower lip of the chassis I think) and compare it to Lotus specs, but I'm sure someone else will be able to help you.
Good luck, Richard
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
You didn't get the springs mixed up did you? Fronts are 350 lb/in and rears 250 lb/in (I think) so the fronts have thicker wire...
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
Sorry, talking rubbish re the leverage effect - it is 1.1:1 at the rear (roughly) so you'll need nearly as much ring adjustment as ride height adjustment!richardw wrote:RED BARON wrote:Also you don't need to adust the ring by the same amount as the ride height change; the leverage effect on the rear suspension is such that there is very roughly a 2:1 ratio between ride height adjustment and ring height adjustment.
Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
Thanks all for the help.
My driveway is flat where I done the job.
I couldn't have got the springs mixed up as I already had fitted the front ones a couple of weeks ago and did notice the front ones were longer and thicker wire.
One thing I forgot to mention was I torqued the damper bolt up with the wheel on and car on the ground but I didn't loosen the arm nuts a bit.
Does that matter and if I have to loosen the nuts off a bit now will I have to replace all the nuts with new nylock ones ?
Another thing is if I do have to loosen off again do I have to have the wife sat in the front seat and can I do one side at a time ?
I will try winding the ring down about 40mm on o/s and 25mm on n/s to see what it looks like, when I get a "C" spanner to do it.
Thanks again
Ian.
My driveway is flat where I done the job.
I couldn't have got the springs mixed up as I already had fitted the front ones a couple of weeks ago and did notice the front ones were longer and thicker wire.
One thing I forgot to mention was I torqued the damper bolt up with the wheel on and car on the ground but I didn't loosen the arm nuts a bit.
Does that matter and if I have to loosen the nuts off a bit now will I have to replace all the nuts with new nylock ones ?
Another thing is if I do have to loosen off again do I have to have the wife sat in the front seat and can I do one side at a time ?
I will try winding the ring down about 40mm on o/s and 25mm on n/s to see what it looks like, when I get a "C" spanner to do it.
Thanks again
Ian.
- DavidOliver
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
I´m sure you have but check that springs have seated fully into/onto support rings. This is why it is good measure to run the car a bit to settle the renewed parts. You can do this carefully with slightly loosened nuts.
Damper nuts would normally not need to be loosened but as you have also changed springs, while down there you may as well loosen them with the other nuts.
New nylocks can be Loosened/Retightened as the plastic has not yet bedded in, old nylocks should be replaced.
If you will normally drive the car with driver only, a person of your relative weight should sit in the driver´s side when tightening suspension nuts on both sides (on a level surface).
If you want to alter damper spring rings settings, even with the C-spanner, take the load off the spring as much as you can without dismantling everything. Adjustment can be achieved without a special C-spanner.
If you want a cat´s whiskers job take the car to where they have corner weight gauges, preferably after several miles bedding in. After this you might find the car lop-sided due to bends and strains but you will have optimum suspension settings for car handling.
Dave the cog.
Damper nuts would normally not need to be loosened but as you have also changed springs, while down there you may as well loosen them with the other nuts.
New nylocks can be Loosened/Retightened as the plastic has not yet bedded in, old nylocks should be replaced.
If you will normally drive the car with driver only, a person of your relative weight should sit in the driver´s side when tightening suspension nuts on both sides (on a level surface).
If you want to alter damper spring rings settings, even with the C-spanner, take the load off the spring as much as you can without dismantling everything. Adjustment can be achieved without a special C-spanner.
If you want a cat´s whiskers job take the car to where they have corner weight gauges, preferably after several miles bedding in. After this you might find the car lop-sided due to bends and strains but you will have optimum suspension settings for car handling.
Dave the cog.
Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
I have taken what you say on board Dave and did jack the one side up clamped the spring lowered the jack and managed to rotate the
ring by hand to lower it by 13mm, on that side to even it up a bit.
I have only done this so I can at least get out in it as I have had the car 4 months now and only been out once and that was only 10 miles,
to check the engine was ok after the major service with timing belt ect.
I want to get out to bed the brakes in a bit and settle the suspension a little as it is due a MOT on the 25th and then I will adjust it properly
then if it passes.
Also I red on here about having the otter switch with the wires uppermost and that they should point downwards so rotated it 180 degrees
now the Fan Fail light is on. Still that is a whole new thread and will go and try to find the answer on here somewhere.
Once again all for your help it was all very useful.
Ian.
ring by hand to lower it by 13mm, on that side to even it up a bit.
I have only done this so I can at least get out in it as I have had the car 4 months now and only been out once and that was only 10 miles,
to check the engine was ok after the major service with timing belt ect.
I want to get out to bed the brakes in a bit and settle the suspension a little as it is due a MOT on the 25th and then I will adjust it properly
then if it passes.
Also I red on here about having the otter switch with the wires uppermost and that they should point downwards so rotated it 180 degrees
now the Fan Fail light is on. Still that is a whole new thread and will go and try to find the answer on here somewhere.
Once again all for your help it was all very useful.
Ian.
- amarshall
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
It could be as simple as the coolant level in the header tank falling below minimum if some escaped when you were rotating the otter switch. The fan fail light doubles as a low coolant warning.RED BARON wrote: Also I red on here about having the otter switch with the wires uppermost and that they should point downwards so rotated it 180 degrees
now the Fan Fail light is on. Still that is a whole new thread and will go and try to find the answer on here somewhere.
https://www.lotusexcel.co.uk/
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
Thanks will check when cooled down.
Ian.
Ian.
Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
Did check the expansion tank it was empty ( silly me ) added water and will go out for a run tomorrow.
Thanks Mr A Marshall.
Ian.
Thanks Mr A Marshall.
Ian.
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
We've all been there at least once. Glad it was something simple.RED BARON wrote:Did check the expansion tank it was empty ( silly me ) added water and will go out for a run tomorrow.
Thanks Mr A Marshall.
Ian.
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- MrCoolA
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Re: Rear Spring/Damper Adjustment
and antifreeze i hope?RED BARON wrote:Did check the expansion tank it was empty ( silly me ) added water and will go out for a run tomorrow.
Thanks Mr A Marshall.
Ian.
Previously Jerry (Taylor)
Now "Black Flag"
Lotus Excel SEI1989 253.6hp 190lbft
Lotus Elise S3 1.6. Motorsport Green 2011.
Now "Black Flag"
Lotus Excel SEI1989 253.6hp 190lbft
Lotus Elise S3 1.6. Motorsport Green 2011.