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Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 18:06
by KLM
Hello

What I would like to do is to replace the hard plastic pipe from the tank to the pump and from pump to filter and filter to flowlock. with a flexible rubber type pipe. so that I can relocate the pump and replace the closed bowl filter with a transparent inline one.

I have been searching for suitable pump fittings etc but I'm finding it a bit of a nightmare, for example the tank to pump pipe is 1/4bsp and the pump to filter is 3/8 the input and output unions are also different diameters. I want simple push on fittings.

If it requires a new style pump I am ok with that as long as the pressure/flow rate is right for the dellortos.

Any suggestions ?

Kind Regards

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 18:28
by Pete Boole
Whatever hose you buy make sure it's suitable for modern petrol or it will always smell of fuel. Have you looked on Think Automotive's site yet? I get pretty much all my fuel/oil related stuff from them.

Pete

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Fri May 08, 2020 11:56
by KLM
Hi

thanks for the suggestion. my issue is knowing precisely what fittings to buy for the existing pump, I feel a new pump my be simpler way to go.

I have seen this pump and its low psi but high flow

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/holley-mig ... lsrc=aw.ds

And then add a inline filter after it.

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Fri May 08, 2020 12:57
by KLM
I have just ordered


Holley Mighty Mite High Flow Carburettor Fuel Pump
SKU: EPP12-426
Flow Rate25gph 1 £56.93

Sytec Pro Flow Low Pressure Fuel Filter
SKU: FSEPRO805
Fitting8mm Bore Pipe 1 £9.18

plus 2 metre of
FUEL INJECTION INJECTOR HOSE SAE J30 R9 RUBBER PIPE HIGH PRESSURE LINE
FUEL HOSE METAL JOINER REDUCER 8mm to 6mm

The initial plan was to cut the existing pipe from the tank and fit the reducer and then carry on with the 8mm stuff, as the pump and filter is all 8mm push on.

I have never been happy since upgrading the original pump to the electronic version, trying to use those original hard plastic pipes and get the unions to tighten up enough as so not to weep fuel is a challenge as is changing the filter, I have done it plenty of times but it should be easier. so hopefully once I get all this fitted I will of overcome 2 niggly issues.

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Fri May 22, 2020 18:26
by KLM
Hi

Well I have replaced the pipes/filter and pump.

Firstly I must mention the Holly Mighty Mite pump that I purchased from demon tweeks. It comes with a small canister style filter that you are meant to screw into the input side on the pump, however it wouldn't, it would screw in about half way then go extremely tight. so I boxed it back up and requested it to go back for a refund.
so I purchased this https://simonbbc.com/fuel-flow-su-repla ... fuel-part/ it is a modern direct replacement for our pumps.

Here is what I have done so far. I haven't quite finished, but I wanted to see if it all works, which it does, the pump is silent apart from when 1st turned on, it clicks just like the original until the bowls are full. there is no leaks and everything is much easier to get to and maintain.

Image

The filter bowl I removed had a lot of reddish dust in it which was not a good sign, and after a spirited 30 min drive on the new setup I can already see reddish particles in the new filter. so I think its time to remove the tank.

However I am pleased with my new setup, just being able to see inside the filter without the faff involved with the original was worth it alone.

here is a list of what I used.

Pump = as above
Filter= see previous message.
1 x FUEL HOSE METAL JOINER REDUCER 8mm to 6mm (the original pipe from the filter to the flowlock is the hard plastic type, I cut mine off a few inch before the flowlock and attempted to insert the reducer. the plastic pipe needs to be heated up with a hair dryer to make this happen.)
2 x metre of SAE J30 R9 RUBBER PIPE
6 10mm-16mm jubilee clips

Ps, I haven't had the spare wheel in there for at least 9 yrs

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Fri May 22, 2020 19:44
by Hawaiis0
KLM wrote:
Fri May 22, 2020 18:26
....

Ps, I haven't had the spare wheel in there for at least 9 yrs
Very nice work and a good alternative.

I am sure you are aware, the spare wheel, in true Chapman fashion, has a double role as part of the rear crash structure.

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 20:34
by CID
Yes a crash feature :shock: .. Ok mine stays in it.

About fuel.. Be careful about using other pumps. Although I had a new identical pump my Carbs were overflowing some times with everything setup properly. Check the fuel pressure ones to be sure the pressure is not above 3.5psi to be on the safe side.
I went to special float needles (viton tips) to avoid overflow.
The plastic pipework is mostly Teflon (I guess here also) and to go to rubber from here you can also put the rubber over the pipe and tighten with 2 clamps.
I also are planning to replace the engine section with some nice Aeroquip parts and braided hoses :mrgreen:
Well at least some look alike. But no Chinese rubbish :|

Rgds Curt

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 23:08
by KLM
I have had issues with sticking needle valves which lead to a small fire, long story on here somewhere., I was aware of the pressure the dellortos can tolerate and this pump on paper is upto the max, so on first start up I was already with the air filter off, so I could check straight away if the pump was too much. as I mentioned it clicks until the float chambers are full and then stops, it appears to work perfectly atm.

Regarding the spare wheel compartment, I plan involving some marine ply to tidy it all up and re-insert some strength.

Re: Fuel Pipe Replacement

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:58
by KLM
on a side not my car just passed its mot with no advisories.

although it was a battle trying to get it through the emissions, the hydrocarbons were far too high. the new requirements are 3.50% max co and 1200ppm hydro, I had to up the co to 3.50 which just brought the hydro down long enough to pass. this is on nearly built carbs so I have a bit of head scratching to do.

I have always had the hydrocarbons about 350 so im not sure why they are so high now