next one window motors

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andy brad
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next one window motors

Post by andy brad »

Been working on the window lift motor but i have failed it is on a late 1990 excel may have to replace the motors. unless someone on here can advise striped cleaned works on the bench fine also adjusted the window frame securing bolts but it will not work through full travel it must have a thermal cut out. Andy

Pete Boole
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Re: next one window motors

Post by Pete Boole »

Can you move the glass through its travel range by hand without any sticking problems?

Pete

andy brad
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Re: next one window motors

Post by andy brad »

Pete Boole wrote:
Sat Sep 25, 2021 16:33
Can you move the glass through its travel range by hand without any sticking problems?

Pete
yes they are the original motors i have serviced them a few times over the years just ordered new ones Rover from Rimmer bros as i was getting nowhere with them work great with no load but thats always the way with motors. thank you andy

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Re: next one window motors

Post by bash »

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11901
Works for any motor

Bash
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MalcolmH
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Re: next one window motors

Post by MalcolmH »

Question for Pete, if you don't mind?

Pete - when you say can you move the glass by hand through its travel range, how do you do that exactly?

Took my passenger door card off a few days ago. Fixed the lock that had dropped inside the door (the main incentive for removing!) quite quickly with a bead of superglue. Then decided to have a look at the non-working window.

Didn't really know what I was doing, also my voltmeter was in a car parked several miles away, so I just checked nothing had come disconnected - nothing had, or that I could see anyway. The switch still clicked when pressed up or down. But nothing - the glass or any of the lifting mechanism - looked like it was going to move anywhere. So do you mean try to push or drag the glass down, with rubber gloves or whatever, which should then cause the lifting mechanism to move? Like I say, mine didn't seem like anything was going to move at all without any power. A few weeks ago I tried - unsuccessfully - to drag the glass down wearing rubber gloves, but not with the door card off.

I didn't remove the inner (black) section of the door card. Only the two panels, to access the door lock & the main part of the window workings. What I could see of the door beam looked in good nick. And looking down into the window channel - or as much as I could with the window shut - the top shelf looked a bit rusty (but not overly) and the glass didn't appear to have come off the lifter.

Or as much as I could tell. I should add that despite owning several Excels through the years, this is only the 2nd time I've taken a door card off one. And my first time, other than fuses/relays, investigating the window workings!
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MetBlue
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Re: next one window motors

Post by MetBlue »

Not Pete, but I can answer your question.
Meaning is to removed the motor and arm that drives in the u channel (as one unit). There are only 4 off 10mm A/F short bolts.
Then see how freely the window moves.
You have no chance of back driving the motor system just by pushing down on the glass ( as you have found)

Tony
What goes together.... Must come apart.

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MalcolmH
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Re: next one window motors

Post by MalcolmH »

Ah, thanks very much, Tony.

Just to clarify though - and save me taking the door card off again to check - to undo those 4 bolts would I need to remove the entire black inner door skin? Rather than just the the smaller panel that exposes the motor & part of the workings.

If the former, must say removing that whole inner skin looked a bit daunting, needing possibly the door locking rods disconnected & suchlike? But having taken off only the smaller panel, I don’t recall seeing any obviously visible bolts for removing much of the window gubbins.
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Pete Boole
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Re: next one window motors

Post by Pete Boole »

There are three removeable panels attached to the inner door skin - these are the only removeable pieces - you cannot remove the whole inner door skin. One gives access to the latch area, a second to the central locking motor and a third - larger, and nearer the hinge, gives access to the window motor. All are held in place with screws and mastic usually. If you remove the largest panel you will see the window motor. The motor is attached to a separate bracket which in turn is attached to the door beam with the four bolts described by Tony. Be careful when removing them - if rusted in they tend to shear. By withdrawing the motor and it's arm the window glass is then free to slide up and down - or should be! That's what needs checking - that it is indeed free to move within it's channel and not clamped by a twist in the frame or debris in the channel. The glass should move freely and fairly smoothly throughout it's travel. If it's free to move then the problem is with the motor itself - or the wiring.

The other thing to remember is that there is quite a lot of wire between the battery and the motor. Bench testing might not replicate the current received by the motor in the door!

Pete

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MalcolmH
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Re: next one window motors

Post by MalcolmH »

Ah, many thanks, Pete.

Took a few photos when I exposed the window workings. Looking back at them I can now see the top 2 bolts. The other 2 must be further down, hidden in the shadows of the photo.
"I never let progress get in the way of my reluctance to change"

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