Clutch master cylinder removal

[Zaphod]

Next question..
I need to take the clutch master cylinder out of the car as the clutch is binding halfway when pushed through the sticky area it disengages. The slave is new so I need to inspect the master cylinder. However ri can’t see for the life of me how to get to the fixings or the clevis pin! The service notes are not that helpful..

[rbgosling]

You can try to do this lying upside down in the footwell and feeling your way up. But that is, frankly, nearly impossible. What I, and several other owners, have done is to cut an access hole in the fiberglass above the pedal box, and screw a plate over the hole when the job is done.

[bash]

Cut a hole, make a cover plate to seal it again.
Bash

[Hawaiis0]

Buying an Auto fixes this issue

[Alan_M]

Buying an Auto fixes this issue

Now there’s an idea

[Tanz]

Either do what Bash says - (I wasn't brave enough to cut a hole) or reach up there with a hook like an Allen key. Helps if you remove the seat and get in the Lotus position. See old thread below. Getting it back in is even harder.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5729&p=39863&hilit= ... der#p39863

[Hawaiis0]

Buying an Auto fixes this issue

Now there’s an idea

Is it Blue?

[Alan_M]

Buying an Auto fixes this issue

Now there’s an idea

Is it Blue?

I prefer an 87 vintage Bordeaux

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Cut a hole, make a cover plate to seal it again.
Bash

Hello Bash.

Can you remember what is immediately under the area where you cut the hatch for access to the clutch master (ie any potential for damage by the saw)? Did you mark the hatch cut out area then drill corner holes, then use a key saw or jig saw?

My starter relay filled with clutch fluid (slow leak past the master piston seal) and failed, so although I've replaced the relay, I need to replace the clutch master sooner or later and I think your hatch is a good option for access to the clevis pin, and mounting bolts. Boll**ks to the Lotus position in the footwell!

[bash]

Theres a bigger gap below the grp than you might expect, but I drilled 4 holes and made sure the drill stop was on, from memory the grp is less than 6mm thick, and luckily I had a broken jigsaw blade to ensure I didnt go thro too far not knowing the depth. If you can wait till tomorrow I will have a look and measure the clearance etc, it will only take 5 min to open it up.

Bash

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Theres a bigger gap below the grp than you might expect, but I drilled 4 holes and made sure the drill stop was on, from memory the grp is less than 6mm thick, and luckily I had a broken jigsaw blade to ensure I didnt go thro too far not knowing the depth. If you can wait till tomorrow I will have a look and measure the clearance etc, it will only take 5 min to open it up.

Bash

Brilliant. If you do go in there, take a quick photo of the hatch when it's apart, if you can. Most grateful. cheers!

[bash]

Ok, there is about 25 mm clearance until you will either cut the accelerator cable or catch the metal pedal box edge. The width of the hole is about at its maximum but you could make it longer by about 20mm. Grp is about 3 to 4 mm thick so a dremil cutting disc would piss through it. My rubber cover is just retained by two self tappers, one either side, so no one would know you have done it.






Sorry they are slightly blurrey but you get the idea.

Bash

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Great. Thanks Bash.

So is it big enough to get a small hand in to reach the clutch master cylinder bolts?
Or is that not necessary if you have the right tools?
I suppose I could loosen the acc. cable bulkhead mount to allow more access?

Sorry for being thick. I don't want to cut then find out I'm stymied by lack of correct spanner etc.

[bash]

Unfortunately this hole only gives you access to the inside of the pedal box and is great for the accelerator cable but gives no access whatsoever to the clutch master cylinder, sorry dude, my school reports often said I had failed to read the question as Im getting an old get now I think Im reverting to type.
Bash

[Lotus-e-Clan]

D'oh!


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