Excel Radiator Options?

[JB455]

As some of you may have seen on the FB page yesterday- My '85 Excel decided that it had been running flawlessly for too long, so it decided to empty the contents of the radiator at 60 mph as I was driving home from a drive with the Litchfield Lotus Group. It could have been worse- it was the end of a 150 mile drive and I was only 6 miles from home. Ol' red got to finish the day on my trailer.
Anyhow, I find myself in need of a new radiator. I've read the other threads on here about some of the available aluminum units available. I see that SJ has OEM style radiators, but the note says post-'86. I don't know what the differences from year to year are, or if there are any? That option is quite expensive, so probably won't do that, even if it would fit.
The aluminum units seem to be almost universal for all years Elite/Eclat/Excel. Do they fit any of those models without mods to make them fit? Seems that most guys using aluminum here went with the Winner Racing parts. Those are available in stock here in the US, but there are also radiators from "GPI Racing" which look to be finished a little nicer than the Winner units- at least they look nicer in the pictures. Ebay listings show that both are in stock in California and can be at my house on the other side of the country next week. I suppose the other option is to have the original recored- but then I need to a radiator shop that's still in business. Seems that many have gone away in the last 20 years.

Anyone used the GPI units? Do the Winner Racing parts fit anything without reworking it?

[Hawaiis0]

I think the main difference pre and post is that it goes from a double core to a triple core with increased fins per inch. Measurements on fit are the same I believe, as each of the 3 part numbers are on post '86 MY list.

Radiator
DESCRIPTION
pre '85
2 Row,
12 F.P.I
prior VIN 2566 on
2 Row,
20 F.P.I
post VIN 2566
3 Row,
14 F.P.I

Winner go straight in. Some encounter a little squeeze possibly due to owner interference or crash panel replacements not done correctly.

[Lozza74]

On my 1983 Excel I found the Winner radiator was physically thicker than the original. From memory it was 5cm thick instead of 3.5cm.

That 1.5cm difference turned into a bit of a faff to fit, as the new radiator clashed with the reinforcing ribs moulded into the upper and lower radiator ducts. I had to move the radiator mounts forwards a little to clear those ribs.

I wrote it up on my restoration thread on TLF - https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/t ... nt=1011103

[JB455]

Thank you for the responses! I looked at your link- it's really helps me understand the issues with mounting the Winner. I think that I'm going to try the other option- The GPI Racing- unless someone comes on here with negative info about it. After looking at all the pics and measurements it looks like it may fit a little easier- or it could be worse. At least the welds look a little prettier. I'll report back when I get it in.

[Lotus520]

I’m looking at renewing the cooling system as it will only be a matter of time before something rots through or splits, the rad, tank and hoses all appear to be the originals.
I’ve decided to keep away from the Chinese rads as it seems to be the luck of the draw for how long they last, also bare alloy doesn’t dissipate the heat as well as a painted one, also more susceptible to the elements, plus I don’t want any Chinese bits on my car!!!
Also looking at a decent electric pump to keep the flow rate up at low revs and also interested in the mod that helps out cylinder 4 when the heater is set on cold.
Does anyone have experience of an electric pump?

[Marten]

I don’t want any Chinese bits on my car!!!

Does anyone have experience of an electric pump?

The magnets will surely be Chinese if they are any good

[Pete Boole]

I've just ordered a 4-port bypass valve for when I finally get round to doing some plumbing - essentially two circuits depending on the setting - one allows water through to the heater matrix and the other allows free flow back to the water pump when the heater matrix is not required. Have a look at T7 Design's website - lots of good stuff. Mine will be vacuum-operated but there are cable-operated versions as well.

Pete

[Lotus520]

Regarding the magnets, I will convince myself they are German or Japanese

Thanks for the heads up Pete, they seem to have some great stuff on their site. Looking forward to seeing how we get it done

[Zag]

Why not get your original re-cored?
Had mine done when it sprung a leak. Cost the same as an a Chinese alloy one and don't have to worry about size or fatigue plus supported a local business.

[LotusMonkey]

Why not get your original re-cored?
Had mine done when it sprung a leak. Cost the same as an a Chinese alloy one and don't have to worry about size or fatigue plus supported a local business.

I recently did a recore with Lotusbits. It was very prompt and well packaged. Arrived with a couple very lightly bent veins but that is in unavoidable really. Once I had drilled the extra holes for the fan mounting it was going to need some spray paint anyway. Very happy with the result. Duncs

[Dwaynem884]

+1 on re-coring the original. Got mine done by a local business and it was an excellent job. No worries or concerns needed.

Dwayne

[Tanz]

Had my radiator re cored in April 2008 and still going strong - Dam - now I've done it!!
I live in a hard water area so mix the coolant 50/50 using deionised water. Never see any rust in the system when I change the coolant or when I replaced the water pump.

[Lotus520]

Good to hear regarding the recored rads, excuse my ignorance but is the main part of the rad steel?

[Marten]

Good to hear regarding the recored rads, excuse my ignorance but is the main part of the rad steel?

all brass, and soldered together

[Lotus520]

Great, thanks. Recore it is then