New member - Excel SA

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Excel SA »

So how fast were you going when you were stopped by the hedge? :D Did the over riders save the front bumper? Or the over riders and the bumper saved the car body, or was everything damaged to save the driver? They don't cover much of the bumper - you did well to actually use them!

I will still have something in that space - but more like ducting rather than 20mm of vinyl covered foam that is normally there. On my bumper, which is not an original one, there is a 60 to 70mm gap between the back of the over rider and the body shell. I am planning to use that space for ducting, but I can always add in some foam on the back of the duct, effectively moving the over-rider further back? Still trying to work out the finer details - the air could also be drawn in from the radiator duct, but I imagine the radiator and condenser need all the air they can get from there - but it would be much simpler.....

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

I'm defo going to have to get into vacuum bagging - that piece is excellent Neil. As you know - I'm moving air the opposite way to you - up through the filter from the space in front of the radiator and into the void. Don't be concerned about the radiator running out of air supply - I had the same arrangement on the track car and it made 490hp.

Pete

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Thanks Pete & Stu, I will look at putting a scoop on the underside of the upper duct that is fed from the front grill up to the filter then. It will have the added benefit of stiffening up the front edge of the upper duct which now has a big hole in it, and it will save me from some tricky fabrication.

The bit I vacuum bagged does need some tidying upas not everything lay flat, but at least i have the correct shape so it's fairly easy to tidy up. Best to go with a slow drying resin - things can get tricky and you need time and extra hands!

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Things are still moving on, but thanks to loadshedding, with difficulty. This week we are scheduled to have our electricity cut off 3 times a day for at least 2 hours at a time - when 2 of those hours are prime-time workshop hours it takes its toll.....

I've still be working on the air-filter housing and intake system. I needed a lid to keep the filter in place, I went through many iterations in my head, before coming up with the final result which is fairly simple. I did also make use of a core material which was something new for me. I used a 3mm thick product called Coremat XM (https://www.lantorcomposites.com/textil ... ZqEALw_wcB) which helps build up thickness very quickly - cutting and laying layers and layers of cloth can be tedious. The material itself is pretty inexpensive, but it does require quite a lot of resin - the price goes up quickly when you use epoxy to fill it up, but it can be used with most resins.

Below is the layup of the lid:

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1 is the base - a piece of chipboard with packing tape to make it non-stick.
2 is a layer of peel-ply - this equalises the texture of the fiberglass and stops things sticking - it was folded over to make the flange.
3 is the first layer of fiberglass - it is 400gsm cloth
4 shows the core showing through the layers - if you look closely - you can't see the core otherwise.
5 is the second layer of 400gsm fiberglass laid at a 45 degree angle to the first layer
6 is the second layer of peel ply
7 is the board I used to give me something to fold the flange bit over
8 is an offcut used to hold the folded bit down.

And this is how it fits on to the filter housing after being trimmed to size - you can see the core material on the edge of the lid, and how it was folded over to slip on to the edge of the filter housing:

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I cut the center out - I can probably make use of the board cut from the center somewhere else in my build future - I thought it was easier just to do it like this rather than faffing around trying to make the exact shape - fiberglass cloth does move around a lot once cut - I do put masking tape on the edges of pieces I'm cutting sometimes to keep the weave in place. I cast 3 half-circles of resin on the lower flange, then drilled a 10mm hole and press-fitted some plastic threaded inserts into the holes - no pics of this right now. Three M6 stainless bolts all hold it in place with washers to spread the load. The lid is stiff enough for this job, but may have needed more resin than I thought...

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And how it looks mounted to the top radiator duct:

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The filter faces directly into the front of the car body, so rather than try and fabricate scoops, ducting etc. I'm planning on just cutting some holes as below to let air in - these are just quick renderings of my idea:

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There are a few avenues for air to get into the space between the bumper and the body and then to the filter, but I'm working on a more direct route....the over riders on my car need to be remade, they are horrid. I'm making up a inlet that will fill the space below the over rider, below is a quick and rough mock up - the actual piece will be a bit taller and sit directly under the over rider, and make a neat gap to the side lights.

Image

Neil.

PS - Deon if you read this please check your private messages, I did reply to your message, but could only do it that way as no other contact details came up.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

Excellent! When it's finished you're hardly going to know there's a filter assembly hiding in there - perfect.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Some work has been done these past few weeks....

I moulded up some fiberglass for the intakes, and cut my bumper up a bit more, and then stuck them in:

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And proceeded to cut out most of what I'd made - pictures change between left and right sides...:

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And with some grill material loosely in place as well as an over-rider:

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The over-riders still have to be built up - they are made from a 2mm thick piece of stainless with 2 M6 studs pressed into it, this will be bonded to the flat backing piece (cut from the air filter cover center section). This will all then be bonded to the over-rider shell which was thinly moulded from fiberglass. The void will be filled with expanding foam. They will need a bit of finishing off and painting - I just can't bear to have vinyl wrapping on the outside of the car :lol:

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I also had some stainless brackets cut and bent as per later Lotus mods to add extra two joints between the body and the chassis - they are the ones that fit from the footwells to the chassis. Once they are firmly fitted and the angles are 100% I'll weld the joints. The brackets are made out of 1.5mm stainless steel.

Image

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

Nice work on the air intake! Those extra brackets are defo worth having in place. The original brackets have a horizontal brace in there as well - you probably know :D

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Still a lot of cleaning up to do and then one day some paint....

I have got the corner braces cut as well - ran out of hands and co-ordination! Does the corner brace run along the lower bend - the one on the chassis?

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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This is a modified Excel one on my car:

Image

The little triangle in front of the bracket is part of the Series 2 Elite chassis.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Thanks Pete - they don't give you much space to get a spanner in there! Is that some closed cell foam between the bracket and the body, and under the washers?

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Yep - 3mm self adhesive closed cell foam.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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More fiberglassing....

I did some work on the outlet side of the air filter - I needed some ducting to go from the airbox /filter section to the tubing that goes to the engine intake - it will come out the gap between the top of the radiator and the front nose section.

This ended up being a 1-use mould....I started by sticking a couple of pieces of polystyrene together on top of the upper radiator duct, and then shaped it all up a bit.

Image

Once shaped I started adding body filler - this mostly worked okay, but the heat and chemicals from the body filler did react with the polystyrene - in thin layers it wasn't a problem at all, but where I sanded through and added filler it was more of a problem - quite a few holes were created and re-filled....cardboard tubing was the handiest thing I could find for the exit point.

Image

It was all finely sanded, waxed and had mould release painted onto the surface - despite all this, there were some places that the fiberglass stuck to the mould. I also added on some foam tape to build up the diameter of the outlet.

Image

I then draped it in 3 layers of fiberglass - I didn't vacuum bag it as I was worried it would squash some places out of shape.

Image

This is the top half of the mould - the whole piece will be made up of 4 sections in the end - two bottom sections - one to complete the circle of the outlet and the second to lie over the top radiator duct - a bit more planning may have meant this could have been done as one piece. The last piece will be vacuum moulded and will be the rectangular mouth piece where it will join to the new air-box.

The next instalment will be about red leather....

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

That shape will flow nicely - good work.

Looking forward to seeing the red leather! :D

Pete

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Marten »

Excel SA wrote:
Thu Aug 11, 2022 08:45
More fiberglassing....

Once shaped I started adding body filler - this mostly worked okay, but the heat and chemicals from the body filler did react with the polystyrene
next time try Roofmate

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Thanks Marten, I'm hoping there won't be a next time! I was just using what was available in my workshop to be honest.

Right, on to red leather.

The driver's seat and the rear backrest of my car are in really bad shape - the leather is torn, dried out and shrunken and feels like cardboard in these areas. I have spent a fair amount of time refurbishing the seat frames and seat suspension in the hope I'd get the leather areas repaired. I have kept an eye out for leather that matches, but haven't ben successful - a close colour match, but then the grain is different. After getting some costings on getting the front seats redone - I'd have to get both done so they at least matched - getting replacements seemed like a feasible alternative.

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I came across a set of these for sale - right colour, I just needed to make sure they'd fit. These pics are of similar seats - they are just arranged nicely! The seats are from a 204/2105 BMW 2 series - F22 range. They are from a 2-door, 4 seater car. The other seats that have previously been used - Jag XJS and Mazda RX8 are quite scarce in this neck of the woods - BMW's not so much.

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Colour wise they are a pretty close match - don't believe all the pictures! Here is a colour comparison - the inside of a headrest on the seats I bought. Grain pattern - not such a good match.

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The height of the seats was a concern there is about 50mm of clearance to the roof when they are set as low as they can go - it puts the seat base at pretty much the same height as the original seat I think. There may be issues when the seats are folded forward.....

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Width wise they fit - with about a 5 to 10mm gap either side of the seat from initial trials, and after removing the seatbelt clip and tensioner that comes fitted to the seat.

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The BMW rear seats are fold down seats and are split into 2 sections. I have taken the smaller one apart, and by using the left hand BMW seat on the right hand side of the Lotus seat you get a very close fit - the BMW seat cover is about 15mm wider than the same section of the Lotus. It doesn't stretch all the way to the back, so some sewing work will be needed to use this leather. Below is a picture of the foam from the BMW seat on top of the Lotus back rest.

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The seats are fully electric - something I wasn't particularly keen on, but after some research I can get them to work. I will start another post with more detail on the installation of the seats in the modifications section.

Neil.

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