The longest Elite Resto ? - probably

[Pete Boole]

I used a ratchet strap to pull the lower ends of mine together, but you have to devise another way to slowly release it - or the ratchet strap just allows it to flip back violently to it's original size when you release it . I'm not sure it is now exactly the same shape it was originally - the fixings don't quite line up as well as they did. If you can get some paint on it in-situ I would do that.

Pete

[MetBlue]

I don't like being beaten, but on this one common sense had to prevail. In total have spent many hours trying to get this thing out, with the end conclusion that it would only come out by bending it. I arranged a 12mm threaded tie bar to assist, but even with this, I was only able to draw the bottom of the bar back maybe 100mm from it's working position.


Access was good enough to give it a good rub down though, and it was clear the rust was only surface ( maybe this is why it won't come out - if the bottom rusts away, it's effectively smaller ), so a repaint in situ became the plan.


Attention then turned to the door striker nut plate and Ali block. I'd been wanting to make these captive components but was struggling to come up with a concept until this point. There's abit more detail on TFL, but in summary, remade the nut plate about 130mm long, put wings on the ali block, and struck lucky finding some 8mm OD brass tube that is a perfect fit in the pre drilled holes in the Ali plate.
Result :


And in position on roll bar :


Now, if only those deliveries I'm waiting for would come through, I could get back to the real issue of rebuilding the doors
Tony

[Pete Boole]

I like that Tony! Should save taking the side trim out.

Pete

[DavidOliver]

Tony, anti-roll bar removal. I now read you have decided to just repaint, I would do the same.
Looking at the photographs it looks as if your tie rod/U section are attached half way up the roll-bar leg, due to transmission tunnel interference.
If you used a ratchet strap attached to the foot of each leg, angled over the tunnel, tension up and release any strap friction over the tunnel you might get enough clearance to move the legs or roof beam of the roll-bar.

Perhaps Lotus put the anti-roll bar in before joining the body halves.
And while on the subject, the anti-roll bar does not stop rolling so while call it that. Why not After-roll bar.
Is this Lockdown or Cabin stress

Dave the cog.

[Pete Boole]

Is this Lockdown or Cabin stress

Dave the cog.

Must be the heat in Spain getting to you Dave!

Pete

[Alan_M]

And while on the subject, the anti-roll bar does not stop rolling so while call it that. Why not After-roll bar.
Is this Lockdown or Cabin stress

Dave the cog.

I think must be the lockdown stress - Lotus don’t call it an anti-roll bar - those are found on the suspension. They call it a roll over bar in the parts catalogue. So allows you to roll over and hopefully back onto your wheels.

[MetBlue]

Roll bar painted up and back in position and pleased to report the mod to hold the sticker nut plate is finished and in position. Only minor change to installation was I set the nylock nuts to position away from the car, leaving the brass tubes out initially. I could then slide over the plate on the roll bar and insert the brass tubes from the "outside" (Striker plate position). That then just locks it all in position. In hind sight, I could therefore have made the tubes longer by just under the thickness of the fibre glass in the B post so they wouldn't be able to "walk" back towards the striker, but they are a good transition fit and I can't see them moving. Even if they do, it won't be a problem. Rear trim and seats now loosely back in position so at least I don't have to keep moving them around. Why is it that where ever you put something down, within the hour it's in the way?

Finally back to doors. All materials were with me by this time last week, except the new bushes from SJ. I emailed to see if they'd got lost in post and turns out they were waiting on Lotus to send out one of the smaller items I won't need for months. No doubt Lotus were all furloughed so who knows how long I'd wait. Good news though that they sent out everything else and I had it within 48 hours,
The bushes are SJ part number white metal and according to SJ, are identical to the genuine Lotus Parts ( they sell both, but I didn't notice until after ordering). They also said they would not need reaming or honing out. True enough, on fitting the passenger beam up, pin is a snug fit. Maybe there is slight wear on the spindle, but there is the slightest amount of movement still detectable. It's small, maybe equating to a millimetre play at the latch end, but it's a lot better than before and when I pack the grease in ( I'm using the 45 deg grease nipple in the beam with a spiral cut in the bearing surfaces of the spindle), I suspect even this will be damped out and not be noticeable.
So onto the drivers door beam. Knocked one bush out this afternoon which came out very easy ( I've got a long, largish diameter silver steel drift that can just get on the lip behind the bush. Worked great for both bushes on the other beam) . A few taps on the other bush - nothing. A few more vigorous taps - NOTHING. Found a 13mm socket that was a perfect fit down the tube, and sat nicely up against the rear of the bush. M8 nut in socket, threaded rod down the centre and another suitable sized socket at the bush end to let the bush draw into and wind on the load. How could it not work - It didn't Just pulled the smaller socket inside the bush, which will have probably made it even tighter. Fortunately I stopped after pulling it in a few mm, so fingers crossed. That socket was virtually size for size on the beam main tube ID, so it could not have been bigger. Ideally I'd be applying heat at this point, but I repainted the beams before realising the bushes were past their best, so I'd rather not burn that all off again if I can help it.
And then it got dark !! Round 1 to the Lotus. The fight resumes in the morning.
Tony

[TrevorK]

Can you not saw a slot in the bush from the inside using a hacksaw blade and then fold the bush in on itself?

[Hawaiis0]

Can you not saw a slot in the bush from the inside using a hacksaw blade and then fold the bush in on itself?

Exactly what i did. Very soft once you get a purchase.

[MetBlue]

It's certainly soft, witness fact the socket pulled into it.
I have started a slot with hacksaw which helped on all other bushes, but so far not this one. Just need to go deeper once I get back out there this morning.
Tony

[Hawaiis0]

How about using a screwdriver/drift to get behind the bush and to collapse it inwards by tapping?

[Pete Boole]

A millimetre movement at the latch end is perfect! It probably equates to about a thou at the bush. Good work. Good product from SJ for a change .

Pete

[MetBlue]

Today's specialist subject. Door Bushes. Question 1 : Spot the problem child !!
.

The roll bar might have beaten me, but I consider that more of a strategic withdrawal. Door bushes - a walk in the park in comparison.

Tony

[Hawaiis0]

You may need a 14mm ream IIRC to get the new bushes in tidily. It's the one thing I did wrong on my fit so I built a little slack in from the start.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-14-0mm- ... SwjXZcZsaP

[MetBlue]

Bag. No need for a reamer. SJ had advised the pins would still fit and surprisingly they did. Having been selective regards which pin and direction for which beam, I've got a matched set up now with no detectable play at the hinge for drivers door, and just a thou or two on the passenger door. Of course, when I fit to car, bound to find a bit more movement at latch end, but confident it will be small.
A few parts including hinge plates just dropped off at platers and powder coaters this morning, so be a week or so before I know final story.
Tony