New member - Excel SA

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Excel SA
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Re: New member - Excel SA

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It was good chatting - will know for next time about the time limit on the Zoom calls....and the ability to re-log in.

Some more info on the Rover SD1 tail lights:

When removing them, don't push the fixing bolts to get them free - the bolts may end up inside the light, and won't be easy to get them back where they should be....

If you remove the lens' as I did, you will chip the edges of them - they are thin and brittle, and it would be easy to chip and crack the lens. I split 3 lights apart - some parts split easier than others - they are bonded together, and are not designed to come apart - only do it if you have nothing to lose - one of my lights had a broken lens, the other had had a bio system growing in it at some stage. There are two sections to the lens - the smaller part with the clear reverse light section fits underneath the other bit.

The reflective lining inside the lights has vanished to some extent on all the lights - the additional one I got that had probably been used the right way up was the worst - there was virtually no silver at all on the case.

Image

I did a few experiments with a reflective vinyl and some silver (supposedly mirror) paint. The vinyl looks more reflective when looked at head on with no light on, but when you put a bulb in and switch it on, the painted area looks brighter. With a red lens over the bulb you can't notice any difference. I did not get any pictures of this process, but had verification of my findings from my wife and daughter....

Image

The vinyl is not fun to put on the curved surfaces - it's not something I've done before (nor want to do again!) and getting it off was just as painful - it does stick well and only came off in small pieces. I will paint my lights - the paint I have does adhere well to the plastic, but not all the paints I tried did. If you use vinyl I think you'd have to do it in sections in some of the bulbs.

Brighter light bulbs (within reason..) would be a far simpler option....

I managed to pick up a couple of rubber fittings that I install use in the unused bay, connected to the tail lights, for additional rear lighting. Will also look at connecting my brake lights to the fog lights, as we don't use fog lights around here.....

Image

Neil.

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Hawaiis0
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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Neil
Try putting your fog on the small unused slot and the second brake in the Fog position makes a massive brake light.

Dont forget to double the fuse rating if you do on the brake line. :oops:

Stu
Umm! What to do next?

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Hi Stu,

The fog lights in the front were not on the car when I got it, and as they are not a requirement here, I will put driving lights in the front, disconnect the rear fog lights and use that bay for extra brake lights and use the unused bay for an extra tail light.

The picture below shows the difference between repainted lights and old ones - this was without any lights on, and gives an idea how much brighter things are (the red one one is on the right, just in case you can't tell! Both lenses are in the same condition - they have been cleaned, but not polished.

Image

Will get new bulbs and see how much difference there is to the lighting. The spare bulbs I had at home were too tight a fit into the holders - will need to get ones that will come out.

Hadn't thought about the fuses, so thanks for that heads up - still looking for a fuse diagram for my car, and will need to check the wiring to the back of the car as there is some additional household flex running through the car....

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

Even when you get the factory info on fuses it's not all correct!

Pete

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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The fuse ratings in my fuse box doesn't correlate with any diagrams I have - nor the number of fuses....

In other news - got the bits back from powder coating - all shiny like new!

Image

Yes, there are 3 other springs and another window frame!

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

You're making fantastic progress! Can't wait to see that V8 sat there :D

Pete

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Thanks Pete - still a lot to do.....

Will try to get to the engine place next week - the chap I have been speaking to, and who has been very helpful (and also sells the extra bits I will need - fuel pump, regulator etc.) is about an hours drive away. Will load up my gearbox and take it through to compare and confirm that the Lexus one will fit in it's place before I make the final decision.

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by DavidOliver »

To help ilumination try LED bulbs, also less need for fuse change but if you find wrong fuses in your fuse box
no doubt after someone fiddled there I would revise and install all fuses according to factory.

Dave the cog.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Below are some comparative pics of the changes to the rear lights - the left hand light is as found with hardly any reflective material left on the bowl surfaces, and the right hand one has been re-painted silver.

Standard tail lights - 5W on each side:

Image

Additional 5W bulb in the unused bay of the lights connected to the tail lights:

Image

Standard brake lights:

Image

With fog lights converted to brake lights:

Image

The bulbs were all new standard bulbs, and were connected directly to a battery.

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Hi Dave,

Yip, I think the same bloke who worked on the chassis and the body also did the wiring, and he really shouldn't have done any of it....

Circuit 3 which is the interior lights and should be a 4 amp fuse had a 10 amp fuse in it, but that was just a decoy, as around the back it had been disconnected and an external fuse had been slipped into place with a 30 amp fuse.....must have had some serious lighting in that car he says shaking his head in disbelief once more.....

Image

There was also a relay that had been added in, and spliced directly into the ignition wires - this is to run one of the lighting circuits I think.

Image

The ignition was changed at some point - the key has a tag on it with a different cars' details - and after removal of some of the insulation at the joints, there are a few other wires that seem to have been added to in the past - just another mess to clean up. These fairly thick wires connect to the main harness where the wires are much lighter - the brown one seems to have been over-worked at some stage as the insulation has melted a bit.

Image

The blue and black wires heading off down to the right are for the additional relay.

Will be doing some removal and replacement - the car is stripped down so far that bit more will just take it all the way!

Neil.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

Strangely, I find sorting out wiring quite therapeutic! I like the logic :roll:

Pete

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by DavidOliver »

Neil, you may have seen Posts on Wiring Diagram needed. Stu (Hawaii00) has got the 50-odd page document which
if you do not have will be very useful to obtain. It has all the original wiring colour schemes.

Pete, if you were to work on Neil`s apparent scene you could write a book on Therapeutical Recovery.
Try a modern car wiring with all the gadgets which IMO do not really add to driving pleasure unless you
have fallen in to the mobile 12 hour/day concentration.
Some years ago I respliced a RHD Elite set of looms for LHD, narrowly missed divorce. (No wiring diagram available).

Dave the cog.

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Re: New member - Excel SA

Post by Pete Boole »

Agree about modern cars Dave - I'm currently trying to find the cause of a parasitic battery drain on my Mercedes - utter nightmare! The local Mercedes Indy "specialist" just gave up and gave it back to me (after relieving me of several hundred pounds). The electrons don't behave as they do in a Lotus :lol:

Pete

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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I have got the wiring diagram now, which has helped a lot - Pete obviously feels I'm in need of a lot of therapy! A few others may agree with him!

A friend of mine eventually sold his ML Merc due to his battery going flat if the car was not driven regularly - Merc forums are normally quite useful for such things. The hard way is checking each circuit manually once everything in the car has powered down. Similar issue in my Audi which fortunately was fairly well documented is that a leak from the rear windscreen washer pipe drips on to the amp which causes it to stay on when the car is switched off.

Neil

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Re: New member - Excel SA

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Spent a good few hours on the wiring yesterday - removing the bad add-ons and tracing various wires.

The diode on the window switches didn't look good and had been disconnected, with the wires that were connected being replaced by more dodgy connections. Below is an exploded picture of an overheated and exploded diode. The diode is apparently a 1 Amp, 100V diode, so I bought a few and have remade the part, and will check it works as intended before sealing it up properly - at the moment I have put heat shrink around it. The information for the replacement diode was taken from an MGB forum where the same parts are mentioned.

The bottom two items are the new diode, and then the diode soldered between the terminals

Image

The 25A fuse for the window motor on the drivers side has been removed, so there was an issue with the whole system - I have had the motors serviced and have restored the wiring to original (I hope...).

The car was damaged around the drivers door, and I have unwrapped the looms going into the door and checked, fixed and re-insulated the wires where necessary.

The passenger side window motor uses relays, and I know on some cars (older ones?) an upgrade is done to add relays to all 4 of the window motor feeds - is it something I should look to add in to the drivers side feeds?

Neil.

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