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1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2022 23:38
by MalcolmH
Happy New Year to All.
On the passenger side of my 1988 Excel SE, the electric window's not working.
My electrics knowledge is sparse, but both Window Lift relays click when the switch is pressed for up or down. Have swapped the 2 relays around, no difference. And the 25 amp fuse is OK*. But the window, which is thankfully stuck up rather than down, doesn't budge.
Does this mean doorcard off and checking the motor? Though must admit I wouldn't know what/how to check. I have a voltmeter, but no idea what to do with it regards the motor! Forgive my ignorance.
*Only thing... on the Component Location Diagram for Excel, it shows two 25amp fuses at the bottom of the passenger side relay stack. Mine only has one fuse, and only space for one. Is that normal?
The driver's side window also failed the other day, but that was the fuse. When changing it, I noticed the blown one (fitted by previous owner) was 20amp - diagram says should be 25. Could that be why it blew? Changed for a 25amp anyway.
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 08:24
by Marten
MalcolmH wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 23:38
Happy New Year to All.
On the passenger side of my 1988 Excel SE, the electric window's not working.
My electrics knowledge is sparse, but both Window Lift relays click when the switch is pressed for up or down. Have swapped the 2 relays around, no difference. And the 25 amp fuse is OK*. But the window, which is thankfully stuck up rather than down, doesn't budge.
Does this mean doorcard off and checking the motor? Though must admit I wouldn't know what/how to check. I have a voltmeter, but no idea what to do with it regards the motor! Forgive my ignorance.
*Only thing... on the Component Location Diagram for Excel, it shows two 25amp fuses at the bottom of the passenger side relay stack. Mine only has one fuse, and only space for one. Is that normal?
The driver's side window also failed the other day, but that was the fuse. When changing it, I noticed the blown one (fitted by previous owner) was 20amp - diagram says should be 25. Could that be why it blew? Changed for a 25amp anyway.
Next step is to check what happens in the door. Take the doorcard off and see if the motor is trying to move when the buttons are pressed. If not pull the plug and check for power. With the meter on 20V DC you should be able to get a reading between two wires when you press the button. Often the wires will break in the doorshut by the movement. They could also chafe and short circuit. Check the ground wire to the doorbeam
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 09:12
by bash
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 09:37
by MalcolmH
Many thanks, Marten & Bash… most illuminating.
Having viewed the motor link though, Bash, comprehensive though it is, I think if the problem on mine is the motor I’ll be replacing it. You’re clearly leagues ahead at such stuff than me!!
Hugely useful though, to know what I’m looking at/for.
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 09:39
by MalcolmH
Replacing the motor, that is - if I can get one. Not the car!!!
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 10:28
by bash
Its highly likely that its serviceable, take it off and take it to a sparky it will probably be cheaper.
Bash
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 12:09
by DavidOliver
Get ready to find that the motor is fighting against the window glass trying to slide in the runners.
These can misalign or deteriorate, you can replace the felt/rubber type runners.
Dave the cog
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2022 19:06
by Hawaiis0
Dont forget to test the motor once you have dismantled, off load. IE not connected to the glass.
See alternatives
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2062
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 17:15
by keith rhodes
I had this problem with mine.
It turned out to be the small pcb on the drivers side was the fault. It controls both sides. I got a replacement and re wired the crappy connections from the original.
also as someone has noted the resistance in the window frames can be an issue, mine are still slow to lift or drop, but silicone has helped