Happy New Year to All.
On the passenger side of my 1988 Excel SE, the electric window's not working.
My electrics knowledge is sparse, but both Window Lift relays click when the switch is pressed for up or down. Have swapped the 2 relays around, no difference. And the 25 amp fuse is OK*. But the window, which is thankfully stuck up rather than down, doesn't budge.
Does this mean doorcard off and checking the motor? Though must admit I wouldn't know what/how to check. I have a voltmeter, but no idea what to do with it regards the motor! Forgive my ignorance.
*Only thing... on the Component Location Diagram for Excel, it shows two 25amp fuses at the bottom of the passenger side relay stack. Mine only has one fuse, and only space for one. Is that normal?
The driver's side window also failed the other day, but that was the fuse. When changing it, I noticed the blown one (fitted by previous owner) was 20amp - diagram says should be 25. Could that be why it blew? Changed for a 25amp anyway.
1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Moderator: Board Moderators
- MalcolmH
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 318
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 17:28
- Model: SE
- Colour: Calypso
- Year: 1988
1988 Excel SE - electric window question
"I never let progress get in the way of my reluctance to change"
-
- Regular Poster
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2021 20:38
- Model: excel
- Colour: red
- Year: 1985
- Location: NL
- Contact:
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Next step is to check what happens in the door. Take the doorcard off and see if the motor is trying to move when the buttons are pressed. If not pull the plug and check for power. With the meter on 20V DC you should be able to get a reading between two wires when you press the button. Often the wires will break in the doorshut by the movement. They could also chafe and short circuit. Check the ground wire to the doorbeamMalcolmH wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 23:38Happy New Year to All.
On the passenger side of my 1988 Excel SE, the electric window's not working.
My electrics knowledge is sparse, but both Window Lift relays click when the switch is pressed for up or down. Have swapped the 2 relays around, no difference. And the 25 amp fuse is OK*. But the window, which is thankfully stuck up rather than down, doesn't budge.
Does this mean doorcard off and checking the motor? Though must admit I wouldn't know what/how to check. I have a voltmeter, but no idea what to do with it regards the motor! Forgive my ignorance.
*Only thing... on the Component Location Diagram for Excel, it shows two 25amp fuses at the bottom of the passenger side relay stack. Mine only has one fuse, and only space for one. Is that normal?
The driver's side window also failed the other day, but that was the fuse. When changing it, I noticed the blown one (fitted by previous owner) was 20amp - diagram says should be 25. Could that be why it blew? Changed for a 25amp anyway.
- bash
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 2222
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 15:34
- Model: Se, V8
- Colour: white
- Year: 1986
- Location: Doncaster
- Contact:
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.
- MalcolmH
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 318
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 17:28
- Model: SE
- Colour: Calypso
- Year: 1988
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Many thanks, Marten & Bash… most illuminating.
Having viewed the motor link though, Bash, comprehensive though it is, I think if the problem on mine is the motor I’ll be replacing it. You’re clearly leagues ahead at such stuff than me!!
Hugely useful though, to know what I’m looking at/for.
Having viewed the motor link though, Bash, comprehensive though it is, I think if the problem on mine is the motor I’ll be replacing it. You’re clearly leagues ahead at such stuff than me!!
Hugely useful though, to know what I’m looking at/for.
"I never let progress get in the way of my reluctance to change"
- MalcolmH
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 318
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 17:28
- Model: SE
- Colour: Calypso
- Year: 1988
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Replacing the motor, that is - if I can get one. Not the car!!!
"I never let progress get in the way of my reluctance to change"
- bash
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 2222
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 15:34
- Model: Se, V8
- Colour: white
- Year: 1986
- Location: Doncaster
- Contact:
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Its highly likely that its serviceable, take it off and take it to a sparky it will probably be cheaper.
Bash
Bash
Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.
- DavidOliver
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2014 11:18
- Model: Excel
- Colour: Calypso Red
- Year: 1985
- Location: Malaga Spain
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Get ready to find that the motor is fighting against the window glass trying to slide in the runners.
These can misalign or deteriorate, you can replace the felt/rubber type runners.
Dave the cog
These can misalign or deteriorate, you can replace the felt/rubber type runners.
Dave the cog
- Hawaiis0
- Senior Poster
- Posts: 4146
- Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2013 18:39
- Model: Excel SA (No 3); Elite 504
- Colour: BRG; Dirty White
- Year: 1986
- Location: West Oxfordshire
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
Dont forget to test the motor once you have dismantled, off load. IE not connected to the glass.
See alternatives
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2062
See alternatives
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2062
Nothing is fool proof. Fools are clever!
-
- Junior Poster
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2020 17:03
- Model: excel
- Colour: white
- Year: 1989
- Location: Nottinghamshire
Re: 1988 Excel SE - electric window question
I had this problem with mine.
It turned out to be the small pcb on the drivers side was the fault. It controls both sides. I got a replacement and re wired the crappy connections from the original.
also as someone has noted the resistance in the window frames can be an issue, mine are still slow to lift or drop, but silicone has helped
It turned out to be the small pcb on the drivers side was the fault. It controls both sides. I got a replacement and re wired the crappy connections from the original.
also as someone has noted the resistance in the window frames can be an issue, mine are still slow to lift or drop, but silicone has helped