Meet the new family member

General Elite, Eclat and Excel discussions.

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MetBlue
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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by MetBlue »

. seem to recall Tony also came across the issue of the original door seal being told small
Correct. I nearly put a comment up yesterday to that there seems a generic issue with the apperture size and seal length.

Tony
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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Alan_M »

A little more progress over last couple of days

Steering rack gaiters replaced. The old one was so bad bits of it fell off every time the wheel was turned or the car moved.

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Spark plugs changed - found it had the wrong plugs fitted (correct for spec 1,3 or 5 engine) and looked pretty old.

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Strip down to replace cam belt started as no idea when last changed and although the belt looked ok not taking any chances.
A bit of cleaning and degreasing needed I think while there’s more access.

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I can also say thank goodness for a compact, powerful impact wrench. Went to undo crank pulley bolt and realised I couldn’t stick in gear like normal to stop the engine turning. Did have to move the oil coolers out of the way, but that was pretty easy.

When I drained the coolant I found it had OAT in it and there were salt like deposits inside the water pump inlet, fortunately only the first 15mm - that will be cleaned out, the system well flushed with water and then a coolant flush (Preston) used before refilled with correct coolant.

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Pete Boole »

I can almost hear the engine going - ahhhh, lovely :lol:

I'm going to make up a fixture to bolt in place of the starter motor and which engages with the teeth of the flexplate to stop it turning - I could always make two (or more). I have to find a way to cut the required teeth on the milling machine first though!

Pete

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Tanz »

I always stop the engine turning by jamming the flywheel with a screw driver. There's an aperture at the back of the bell housing or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Cheers, Phil
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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Alan_M »

Tanz wrote:
Thu May 19, 2022 15:15
I always stop the engine turning by jamming the flywheel with a screw driver. There's an aperture at the back of the bell housing or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Plan b was to wedge something into the flywheel if the impact wrench still turned the engine or couldn’t get it undone, but fortunately it was off in seconds. On the SE I’ve always managed by just putting in gear.

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by richardw »

Alan, how much of a job is it to replace the rack gaiters? Mine were fitted with cable ties but over the years the wheel alignments I’ve had done have split and torn the ends as whoever did them didn’t bother to remove and replace the ties!

Also there is oil in mine so will try using one of those leak repair oils before going for a recon rack.

Cheers, Richard
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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Alan_M »

richardw wrote:
Thu May 19, 2022 18:37
Alan, how much of a job is it to replace the rack gaiters? Mine were fitted with cable ties but over the years the wheel alignments I’ve had done have split and torn the ends as whoever did them didn’t bother to remove and replace the ties!

Also there is oil in mine so will try using one of those leak repair oils before going for a recon rack.

Cheers, Richard
Not a bad job at all.

1.Jack and support so both front wheels off the ground
2. Remove wheels
3. Count number of threads still visible beyond the lock nut still showing on both sides to allow you you to get it back together close enough to take for alignment
4. Slacken lock nut for track rod ends - I used a pipe wrench to hold the track rod end to stop it being forced to the end of its range of movement to prevent possible damage to the rubber boot or ball joint itself.
5. Now you have 2 choices, either use a ball joint splitter, split the joint and spin the track rod end and lock nut off, but there is a strong chance of damaging the rubber boot with the splitter.
or
as I did on the one side where the boot was good. Leave the outer ball joint attached to the hub and use the pipe wrench on the shaft of the inner ball joint (between the end of the gaiter and threads) and unscrew from the track rod end - make sure the steering lock is off to allow the rack to move. Sounds more complicated than it was and then just reverse to reconnect, just don’t fit the tie wrap to the small end of the gaiter until back together.


Note, there should be some semi liquid grease within the gaiter to lube the rack and inner ball joint. If you’ve not used it before it’s like sloppy LM grease. I used this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08KPRF99R? ... 7JCA51VV5V Maybe this is the “oil” that’s leaking from the gaiter and your rack is ok? If it’s the rack leaking it should be a red fluid.

A trick here to make it easier to handle is put it in the fridge before you use it to reduce the sloppiness while you’re applying it.

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Alan_M »

Some more progress today.

Front of engine and engine bay given a good degrease and clean.

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New tensioner bearing fitted (SKF). A little trick - after removing the old bearing I cut the outer race off and used the inner race to push the new one to avoid any damage to new bearings. Cam also put in freezer for 1/2 hour so only needed the force from a good vice to push the new bearing on.

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Thermostat removed and tested
Cooling system back flushed in and out of every opening - used a pressure washer with pressure turned down to about 20psi. Kept going until nothing but clean water came out of every opening.

Finally new cam belt fitted.

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When removing the alternator I noticed some sticky goop oozing out by the regulator.

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It’s still charging correctly, but need to order replacement regulator. More info on this problem in this thread - viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11059&hilit=alternator

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Excel SA »

Good progress Alan - you're getting through that list of things to do quickly!

I had no idea there was supposed to be any lubricant in the steering rack gaiters - now I need to find some around here. I assume the idea is to stop the rubber catching on the metal bits as the steering moves or is it something more complicated?

Neil.

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Lotus-e-Clan »

This what I use for steering rack lube (Land Rover Swivel grease). Reduced chance of leaks over gear oil.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322559988760 ... Swh1paBJKh

Clan has had this treatment, but so far not needed to do the Excel which had a replacement rack not so long ago.
Peter K

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Pete Boole »

Good recommendation for the Land Rover swivel grease Peter. Trying to find a good semi-liquid grease is difficult.

Pete

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Lotus-e-Clan »

Pete Boole wrote:
Fri May 20, 2022 10:01
Good recommendation for the Land Rover swivel grease Peter. Trying to find a good semi-liquid grease is difficult.

Pete
Yes, it seems to be very good in operation and very easy to install.

Most folk in the Imp Club are now using it instead of EP80 in their racks. I just coped them! :D
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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Tanz »

Regarding the goo coming out of the alternator - useful thread here

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11059&p=84889&hili ... tor#p84889
Cheers, Phil
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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Alan_M »

Tanz wrote:
Fri May 20, 2022 20:24
Regarding the goo coming out of the alternator - useful thread here

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11059&p=84889&hili ... tor#p84889
Hi Phil, I’d already read that and put the link in my post above :) Also ordered a regulator from an eBay seller as the supplier in that thread is not taking any orders at the moment.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-12-volt- ... 635-2958-0

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Re: Meet the new family member

Post by Alan_M »

Excel SA wrote:
Fri May 20, 2022 06:16
Good progress Alan - you're getting through that list of things to do quickly!

I had no idea there was supposed to be any lubricant in the steering rack gaiters - now I need to find some around here. I assume the idea is to stop the rubber catching on the metal bits as the steering moves or is it something more complicated?

Neil.
I believe, and this is just my thoughts, it lubricates the inner ball joints, also protects the toothed section of the rack as it becomes exposed within the gaiter.

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