The Lotus Grand Tourers

Hi everyone. I finally received the 1988 Excel SE after some delays in coming from Belgum. I am now sorting out and going through everything. The car has not really been driven regularly for several years, and I am in contact with the previous owner in Europe. He has been a wealth of knowledge and has filled in many of the gaps in the car's history, and provided a booklet of receipts. After arrival, the importing company noticed there was an Air Condition leak and replaced the Compressor, Condenser and dryer. While they had everything apart, they noticed that the radiator had some areas that needed attention, so they provided the labor, and I paid for a new 3-row aluminum radiator, double fan assembly, and thermostat.

After receiving the car and when taking it in for licensing, titling and registration I noted a fluid leak, which I have believed is traced to a leaking power steering hose.

When we drove the car, I noted that it drove very stiff and like an ox-cart. Having owned an Excel while living in the UK in the late 89's, I remember how nice the ride was. Looking through the receipts, I noticed that the car had had lowering springs added during it's work in Belgum from SJ Sportcars. I contacted Steve at SJ Sportcars and gave him the item number off the receipt I had and he verified that it had the shorter/stiffer springs. I am not a kid anymore, and enjoy a more suttle ride.

Here is the list of things to do:
1. Paint correction - full wet sand and buff
2. New Fuel Filter in trunk
3. New Fuel lines in engine compartment
4. New water hoses (I don't know how old they are)
5. New hose for power steering pump from tank
6. New Cam belt and tensioner pully
7. Replace sport springs with stock springs
8. All new vacuum hoses
9. The car has had the stock air cleaner removed, and neat looking little air cleaners placed on the carbs. I have the stock air cleaner, and will be reinstalling it with all the associated hoses replaced.

The car has relatively new GAZ adjustable shocks. I have contacted them and they have provided information on shock settings, so this will be done when installing the new springs.

I have sourced what I think will be a really good looking 3rd brake light that will fit under the spoiler and will be installing it. I believe it will fit right into the black area on the underside of the spoiler.

I wish I could post pictures directly, but it looks like I have to have a hosting website to do so. Is there another way to post pictures other than from a website - is there a way to download them here?

Let the fun begin....

It's going to be a great car when you've finished! Yes - we need photos


Pete

Fun indeed, my recently purchased car had hardly been used in 23 years before a professional re-commission by the seller. It (still) had a tricky clutch issue to resolve (probable root cause stuck clutch slave that had been replaced but leaving (me) a bent pedal and cracked bulkhead).

Now some electrical issues have followed (not entirely unexpected!) resulting in the car being abandoned overnight 20 miles away due to no lights.

The central dash (its an 84) has just been completely out to fix the headlight switch, various dash bulbs not working (corrosion) including fitting new a fibre optic bulb (standard LED bulb works there even though it is controlled by a variable resistor). Root cause corroded contacts in the headlight switch causing heat and a melted switch (the sprung “plungers”). Switch was repaired with difficulty (tiny new plungers made on a lathe, in plastic).

I am waiting for the next issue! (and not driving it far from home……)

. (and not driving it far from home……)

Been there. Done that.
With my recent spark gremlins, I lost confidence and one evening did 10 miles, never actually being more than a mile from home just in case.
Please to say confidence does return, but I'm yet to venture onto a motorway. - maybe I should limit my driving to trips into Norfolk .
Tony

MetBlue wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 16, 2023 18:51

. (and not driving it far from home……)

Been there. Done that.
With my recent spark gremlins, I lost confidence and one evening did 10 miles, never actually being more than a mile from home just in case.
Please to say confidence does return, but I'm yet to venture onto a motorway. - maybe I should limit my driving to trips into Norfolk .
Tony

I did expect a period of issues given the length of time my car had little use, just my opinion but it is FAR better to buy cars in frequent use than cars that have been laid up for a while, worse still are “newly restored” cars where you get to experience all the issues resulting from mistakes (or short cuts) made by the restorer! (and where often the owner does not dare drive the car any distance in case something serious goes wrong).

Getting ready for total paint repair/correction. Thanks for the tips on removal of the black rub strip on the door. All trim, antenna, and black rub strip all around have been removed. On the side blinkers, I removed the amber lense, and was wondering how to remove the bracket underneath. I also removed the A-pillar outside trim pieces on both sides, as they had been poorly placed on.

Also, after all the black rub strip was removed, I stepped back and was wondering what the Excel would look like with it totally removed, much like the later Esprits have. Of course, that would take a paint correction to a totally different path. On a white car, that black strip really stands out.

rogbmw wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 29, 2023 13:15

On the side blinkers, I removed the amber lense, and was wondering how to remove the bracket underneath.

First, break your forearm and wrist in a couple of places. With luck, you may then be able to reach round into the footwell, and unscrew the couple of small nuts that hold the side indicator body in place. May need to unscrew the big plate brackets that hold some relays in place, I can't remember for sure (and may be different on LHD cars).

I found replacement indicator bodies online, new, since they are a common-ish Lucas item. However the replacements had shorter studs, making it hard to push them through the fibreglass far enough to get the nut on, and impossible if the gasket is included. Just in case you need to replace them - I had to because the bulb finally blew after at least 12 years in place (probably more) and was rusted in!

Here are a couple of pics I found trawling the net - pearl white with no waist trim.





Neil.

I think they look much better with the waist trim. Although, when you have a reel of this stuff & it's enough to go right around the car, it's surprisingly heavy, which makes me think painting the seam black might be a good option, for those of us that don't like excess weight on the car.

If you are considering a repaint, you may want to consider removing the side flasher
and flushing the hole. The 85 MY didn't have them, (see the photos in the last post),
mine's without, I didn't miss them. If you do change them, the securing bolts are a
square head in a square hole through the flasher unit. IF you manage to reach the
tiny fixing nuts deep in the footwells, they're probably rusted solid, turning them will round off the square hole, leaving you with loose, irremoveable, flashers. If I had to
do this again, I would grind the square heads off, the flasher will pull out on its wire,
then explore some method to secure it from the outside. Good luck, Jeff.

If you leave the waistline trim off make sure you add extra strength to the same area on the inside of the car - I think the paint may crack along the joint due to flexing of the body shell otherwise. I also prefer the look of the Esprit without the trim .

Pete

I have received the new brake pads. I ended up deciding on Wagner Thermoquiets for the front, and Wagner QuickStop for the rear. I have used Wagner Thermoquiets in the past on other cars, and have really liked them. Unfortunately, they have been discontinued for most applications, but I found a set at RockAuto. Both are semi-metallic pads.

I have also received new rear rotors. I have been looking at the fronts - it looks like one has to remove the bearings and hub. Is it a pretty straight forward job to do so?

Its easy, you just need a drift and a hammer for the outer race of the inside bearing. No special tools and no press required.

Bash

Thanks Bash. Much appreciated.