Electric window

[Will49]

The drivers side electtric window isnt working. Stripped off the door card and have put power to the motor and still nothing so guess its rogered and will need a new motor.
I cant find anything to tell me how to remove the assembly to replace the motor , which is bolted from the rear, in the service notes so any body done this or can point me in the right direction? Ive looked at the search on this without luck.

[Pete Boole]

ISTR that although it's bolted from the back, the bracket to which it is bolted is dismountable from the door beam. Sorry - don't have any photos.

Pete

[Excel SA]

If I remember correctly, you need to take the bracket that the motor is attached to off the door beam to get to the bolts of the motor itself. It's been some time since I removed mine though.

Neil.

[Will49]

We have a problem as the window is fully up and so the lifting arm hasnt cleared the bottom tigt bolt so I can remove the assembly.
Ive tried pushing on the glass and levering the arm but nothing wants to budge., I assume the motor or gearing is seized.
Further thoughts anybody?

[Hawaiis0]

Try a direct power supply from a battery to the motor see if that moves it

[Gray14]

Click on link to see image /rocedure from workshop manual:

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AlN8lwv7ZUPXhEExk-K ... X?e=Uzley2

[MetBlue]

Motor mounts to a plate with 3 bolts from the rear as already mentioned (imperial bolts). First removed the
Motor and plate.
The plate bolts direct to the door beam with 4 off M 6 bolts. Once these bolts are free, the glass will drop to any position you want (provided it's not jammed in the frame somehow). Mid position is best for removing the motor and arm, which slides into a channel bonded the bottom of the glass. Get some gaffer tape on the inside of the glass, up and over the door frame (protect door frame with some card over the top ), then stick back to the outside glass to keep the glass at mid position.
On of the easier jobs
Tony

[MetBlue]

To take the motor off the arm, you need to take the tension out of a big FO coiled spring. Easy enough if you clamp the arm in a vice, but don't just take the 3 imperial bolts out or you'll be down A&E.
Tony

[Alan_M]

If applying power make sure you put negative to the body of the motor and positive to one of the contacts in the plug - one will be up, the other down.

[Will49]

I finally managed to get the motor off as it was only held on with two hex bolts. The motor was seized solid. Once off could move the glass and get at the bottom left bolt so now all out and waiting for a new motor and guide felts from SJ.
Door beam has surface rust so i can deal with that as best I can with the limited aaccess.
Next to look at passenger side as its slow to barely moving at the bottom.
Many thanks for all of the advice.

[Will49]

I have found in the bottom of the door a piece of dence foam rubber which i suspect was a cushioned stop for the electric windows. It was obviously glued to someting but can't see where. Can't see anything on it in the Parts Manual. Thoughts please?

Fitted the new electric motor for the drivers side and now have to figure out how the wiring works as one is white and the other blue while the feed wires to the old motor are red and grey. Has anybody fitted one of these and if so how do the wires go?

Can you change new window channels insitue or does the frame have to come out ?

Thanks

[MetBlue]

Don't worry about the wires. Just connect and try. If it's wrong all that will happen is window will go down when you press up and vica-versa.
By channel, if you mean the felt seal the window runs in, you'll need to remove the glass first. Awkward job and you will probably need to at least unbolt the frame from the door beam. I'd try just fitting the motor first and see how it goes.
Tony

[Will49]

Took the frame out in the end only to find a little rust but not too much but found thst the frsme was bent hence pinching the glass. Put it in the vice and improved it some so we will see how the glass runs when i put it in tomorrow. Alsp founfd some washer spacers in the bottom of the door so god knows wrere these go but assume for trying to get the front and rear rails to align. trial and error it will have to be.

[Will49]

Drivers door compleed with new motor and channel seals and all moving very nicely. Turns out taking the frame out was far easier than i thought.
Now to do the passenger door which works slowly so hoping with new channel seals she might be a bit better. if not then another new motor I guess.

[bash]

Save yourself some money.

Bash
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