manifold to down pipe nuts

[CHRISYD]

Ive got to change the exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket but im having trouble the nut and stud nearest the chassis came off no probs, the big bolt at top centre sheared so needs drilling out, but its the nut and stud nearest the sump.....I cant get to it!! you need a deep socket to clear the stud but it wont fit between sump and downpipe. I can just get a spanner on but no room to move it!!!

[marky]

Can you get a nut-splitter in there and cut through the nut? or possibly a dremel?

What about giving SJ a ring and asking them how they do it or even taking it in there and getting them to sort it out for you.

Mark.

[John]

Would an offset or ratchet spanner work in the limited space you've got? Or a socket with a flexi drive?

[fueltheburn]

LMAO - Apologies but I remember those days

My list back in the day went:

1. Spray nut liberally with wd40 and leave to penetrate.
2. Wobbly extension. Nut Rounded... Fu...
3. Nut splitter..... not enough room.
4.Heat red hot (nut only) with blow torch, the nut will have expanded and may once again fit the right size socket. If you are lucky it will crack off... too easy... nope.
5. Dremel multi time... getting desperate arent we!
6. Is personal choice and tool dependant on what you have. I hit and split nut with a big long chisel and lump hammer, I had a pit for this though.

7. Sorry.... you failed.... engine out and on bench. Wow access is so easy now and it comes off in 2 mins.

Good luck

[MrCoolA]

LMAO - Apologies but I remember those days

My list back in the day went:

1. Spray nut liberally with wd40 and leave to penetrate.
2. Wobbly extension. Nut Rounded... Fu...
3. Nut splitter..... not enough room.
4.Heat red hot (nut only) with blow torch, the nut will have expanded and may once again fit the right size socket. If you are lucky it will crack off... too easy... nope.
5. Dremel multi time... getting desperate arent we!
6. Is personal choice and tool dependant on what you have. I hit and split nut with a big long chisel and lump hammer, I had a pit for this though.

7. Sorry.... you failed.... engine out and on bench. Wow access is so easy now and it comes off in 2 mins.

Good luck

Agree with Kieran here, if you have acces to an engine hoist, then 45 mins to take engine out and 1 minute to remove nut/bolt then 60 mins to get engine back in. ( needs two of u though).

[CHRISYD]

Your a cheerfull bunch!!! Think I may have found a way.... a chap at work gave me an old thing that looks like a metal tube about 8" long with a socket shaped into the end (think he said "box spanner") with a T handle. it looks a lot narrower than my deep socket so going to try tomorrow eve.

[robertverhey]

Yep tube spanners have got me out of a tight spot many many times!

[CHRISYD]

ITS DONE!!!!!! Box spanner was still too chunky, but then I noticed if you slide your arm along between the bellhousing and downpipe towards the front, you can just get a stubby spanner onto the nut! took loads of small turns but its done.

[Hawaiis0]

That's a shame. Had you taken the engine out just think of the nice shiny engine bay you would of had

[CHRISYD]

That's a shame. Had you taken the engine out just think of the nice shiny engine bay you would of had

with whatever car ive had, engine out is a last resort! id rather bend, weld or chop tools first!!

[MrCoolA]

That's a shame. Had you taken the engine out just think of the nice shiny engine bay you would of had

with whatever car ive had, engine out is a last resort! id rather bend, weld or chop tools first!!

I'm sure someone once said " any more than two engine jobs to do then take it out " ( paraphrased Obviously)

[DavidOliver]

This post is rather late but I have just reassembled my engine and manifold/downpipe. The subject was how to get the manifold off. Remember you have to get it all back on.
Normally the nuts are so rusted even spanners with good access do not release the nuts and Dremel cuts are necessary. Replacing all studs will help reassembly.
To tighten the nuts on reassembly, besides some nimble fingerwork to get the washers and nuts started on threads, tightening of the two rearmost nuts is not difficult. The front nut I tightened with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, the shaft is thin enough to enable straight access.
Also note that heat proof nuts with anti-loosening heads (all steel) will avoid the nuts loosening during normal running. Useful for both manifold to head and manifold to downpipe.
Dave the Cog