I've done this with the engine in the car, back last spring.
You are correct that you can do this with just the nearside engine mount disconnected, no need to disconnect the other one. I used a jack rather than an engine hoist, raised the engine up a bit and put an axle stand (and block of wood) to support under the sump. The sump is case, not pressed, and can take a reasonable load, but lift/support at a corner, not in the middle. If you do use a hoist, wrapping chain/rope around the inlet manifold is the way to go. Yes, it's good to get the coolant and power steering reservoirs out of the way first, and the screen wash one too.
To get access to some of the studs you'll need to remove the exhaust cam carrier. This is not that big a chore, and as a bonus you can fix any incorrect valve shim clearances while you're in there! When re-fitting the cam carrier be careful not to over-torque, it's easy to strip the threads in the head - I stripped several even just tightening to the correct torque. If you do strip one, no panic, just helicoil it (helicoil is
not a bodge, there a several joints on the F1 engines I design as a day job that are helicoiled from new as it is stronger!). You'll also need a E20 Torx/star socket, which I didn't know before I first stripped my engine. Fortunately I was doing so at the NEC Resto Show, so I could just wander over to the trader area and buy new tools
.
Even with all this done, getting to some of the studs is awkward and painful. Some are easier from above, some from below, some aren't that easy from either direction! Some of them, you'll need to loosen all the nuts a bit, then move the manifold away from the head, then loosen a bit more, the runners get in the way of removing the nut in one go. There's no useful access through the wheel arch, just from below the car. I did it with the front of the car up on axle stands, so that is possible, make sure the stands are VERY secure. It may be a bit awkward but it can be done, so persevere.
Replace the studs with stainless, to avoid future nightmares, as well as the brass nuts you already have. The studs should have a hex socket in the outer end, so you can put them in and tighten them with an allen key.
First time I did this, I tightened up the nuts good and tight, but still the nuts and/or studs worked loose over a fairly short period of time (which was why I was re-doing it last spring). Therefore, use threadlock, and use spring washers. I've yet to prove if this is sufficient to stop it happening again, but it has to be better than not using these.
Let us know how you get on...
