Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

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barker_001
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Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by barker_001 »

Having just replaced my front calipers with reconditioned items and bled the system, I've noticed there is a tiny weep from between the master cylinder and the servo. :roll: Enough to take some of the paint off the servo.

The Bendix master cylinders seem to be increasingly hard to get hold of. How successful have people been with using a seal kit on these to refurbish them, or do they typically have internal corrosion and require sleeving or replacement?

Thanks for your thoughts...
Bryan

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Re: Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Check the threads for companies that do overhauls. Been a few recently from memory.
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Re: Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by LotusMonkey »

I'm about to do the same job on mine, as the car hasn't moved for 16 years and still had the original seals, so though I might as well do it at the same time as the calliper refurb given I need to drain out the old fluid. The SJ kits are about £16 for this job. I also looked at Neil Donaldson's channel on YouTube as the Excel Service Notes that I have do not cover this, and found a video where he removed the master cylinder. It looks easy enough to do, especially as the cylinder comes straight off the front of the servo.

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Re: Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by Marten »

barker_001 wrote: Wed Apr 30, 2025 19:40 Having just replaced my front calipers with reconditioned items and bled the system, I've noticed there is a tiny weep from between the master cylinder and the servo. :roll: Enough to take some of the paint off the servo.

The Bendix master cylinders seem to be increasingly hard to get hold of. How successful have people been with using a seal kit on these to refurbish them, or do they typically have internal corrosion and require sleeving or replacement?

Thanks for your thoughts...
re-sealing only works if the bore isn't deaply pitted and cleans up with a hone. The bottom of the bore could be bad due to water settling out

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Re: Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by barker_001 »

Thanks gents,

I took the cylinder off and sure enough there was fluid coming from the rear seal. However I'm having trouble getting the piston out. I removed the internal circlip and the washer under it, and was expecting the piston to pop out. But it doesn't move beyond the position in the photo. Do the slots mean I need to unscrew it or is there anything else I need to do to release it? The piston feels like it's coming to a definite stop against something, rather than jamming.

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barker_001
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Re: Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by barker_001 »

A kind gentleman on one of the Facebook groups came up with the answer. You need to remove the reservoir, and in one of the ports is a small pin which needs to be removed to release the piston. Push down on the piston and the pin comes our easily. It also ejects quite a bit of brake fluid - fortunately my ports were facing the garage wall and not towards the car!
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Re: Bendix Master Cylinder Leak

Post by barker_001 »

Bump! :shock:

The outcome of this was that when I finally got the MC apart, there was a small amount of pitting at the low point of the bore, and also around the circumference of the rear seal, which is where it was leaking from. Despite trying to remove it with some 1000 grade wet and dry paper, it was too deep and the pitting, especially around the rear seal, remained.

In the end, and with Lotus in the Peak approaching, I bit the bullet and bought a reconditioned MC from Lotusbits. Not cheap, but very well finished with a silver anodised coating, and supplied with a clean (inside and out) reservoir, which was a nice surprise. The cylinder was easy to fit, and did not require the clearance from the servo pushrod to be adjusted (still about 0.5mm). I did, however, learn a thing or two about bleeding brake systems. Unfortunately, needing two hands for most of these operations and with brake fluid everywhere, I didn't get any photos...:

1. It is important to fill and bleed the MC itself before connecting it to the car. After watching some Youtube videos, I bought a MC bleeding kit from ebay, make sure the one you buy has 2 x M10x1 plastic plugs for the ports on the MC. This was for the Bendix MC, not sure if the connections on the Girling are the same. I connected two clear tubes to these and fed them back into the reservoir. I gently operated the brake pedal (only over its normal range of movement), and watched the bubbles come down the tube and disperse back into the reservoir. After a while the bubbles got less and eventually stopped, with just a smooth flow of fluid. This happened quite quickly for the front brake port, but took a lot more pumping for the rear brake port before the bubbles stopped. At this point I unscrewed the plastic plugs, and quickly refitted the car brake pipe metal connectors. Luckily spillage of brake fluid was minimal.

2. Once the system was complete again, I bled it using a Gunson Easy Bleed. £20 or so from Halfords and worth every penny. The Easy Bleed applies air pressure from a spare tyre to the reservoir, forcing fluid through the system and out of the bleed nipples. Much easier than pumping the pedal, and there is no danger of damaging the cylinder seals. I bled about 600ml of fluid through the system, but found that I didn't have any bubbles at all, which was good.

A test drive showed that the brakes felt firm and responsive, with the pedal travel and load being much the same as before. But having had the rear calipers rebuilt a couple of years ago, and the front calipers replaced recently, the braking felt much more assured, with none of the pulling to one side that was symptomatic of the old calipers being past their best. All in all, a satisfying result.
Bryan

1990 Excel SE

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