New comer - Progress (edit)

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amarshall
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by amarshall »

KevW wrote:Re the dimmer/rheostat I'm not 100% sure but I don't think those leds can be dimmed. They are either on or off.
Correct. LEDs are either on or off - dimming effect is produced by using square waves with varying durations of on and off pulse to give the effect of reduced brightness. It's all quantum.
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by don.hasi »

So is it possible to install them without any risk also with a working rheostat ? Or has this always to be set on full energy?
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by amarshall »

don.hasi wrote:So is it possible to install them without any risk also with a working rheostat ? Or has this always to be set on full energy?
It's been a while since I built any LED circuits, but from memory, if they're in series with a variable resistance (rheostat) they will stay at full brightness until the voltage drop across the rheostat is so high that they don't trigger at all. In effect, the rheostat becomes an extra switch :lol: Depending on the type of LED used, wiring them in series like that could result in damage to them.
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by fueltheburn »

It's also been a long time since I looked at LED circuits but you can adjust brightness via an extra circuit that relates to current control.
If memory serves.... "Buck" or "Boost" circuits are what is required.
I will have a look tomorrow on this one as I have a few kicking around at work.

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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

This might work - Pulse Width Modulation , but must be supplied by own supply circuit - if I read the blurb correctly

http://www.kicklighting.com/PWM-dimmer- ... or-LED.htm
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Just Taxed the car - Check out the tax Disc :D :D :D

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Last edited by Hawaiis0 on Fri Sep 22, 2017 21:34, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by chrisw2811 »

I wish the tax for mine was only £100.........
1986 Excel SE, 1985 FJ1100, 2012 Passat TDI Estate, 2012 Golf TSi, 2010 Mini R56, 1985 Yamaha Salient 1964 Raleigh Runabout 1960 Motobecane 1979 Honda NC50 , '02 Montesa 315R

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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Lotus-e-Clan »

It'll be tax-free for your car in 2025 - be patient - I have to wait until 2029! :wink:

If I still had my 76 Elite it'd be tax-free next year! :D
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by don.hasi »

Do you have just changed the bulbs with the LED or do you have made a new circuit?
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

don.hasi wrote:Do you have just changed the bulbs with the LED or do you have made a new circuit?
Just replaced the bulbs with equivalent sized LED. I have no dimming function as previously discussed but don't mind
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Tinkering with hi-level brake light. Taken from a Rover 45

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It's 1.5 cm too left but I wanted to cap the house roof reflection perfectly :D :D

Doesn't obscure the rear view too much - never use mirrors anyway :D :D

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Last edited by Hawaiis0 on Fri Sep 22, 2017 21:36, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Today's likkle tinkerings. Bought some Jaguar XJS Cabriolet Recaro seats from fleabay. They are a easy fit - almost. The track holes are bob on front to rear, but the width span is 13mm too narrow - 1/2 inch in old money. First I removed the seat belt anchorage point by drilling off the rivets - there were 2 for each seat to allow a swap to LHD. I took a 15 inch length of 40mm steel bar and drilled 2 holes 13 mm apart 25 mm from each end. One 9mm the other a tapped M8 (6.8mm start). Into the 9mm hole I welded countersunk tensile bolts 70mm long. (these can be a little shorter). The bar was then bolted to the inside seat rail on each seat with the welded bolts on the outside. This moves the seat away from the tunnel and gives better clearance as shown below. It was then a lift in and drop in with relative ease. The fixed bolts removed the hassle encountered with the loose originals. Observations post fit: The slight tilt is un-noticeable. The fore to aft movement is not as great as the originals. I may be blocked by the head of the track bolt catching on the runner stop, but the drive position is set for me so not to worried at the moment. :D :lol:

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Halfway done

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Original Tunnel Clearance

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Jag Tunnel Clearance

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Seats in

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To finish I will be slowly working out the electrics for the heated panels and lumber motor
Last edited by Hawaiis0 on Fri Sep 22, 2017 21:42, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Big Jim »

Nice Job . Are you doing the electrics ? :D
Jim

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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

Busy weekend at the NEC; couple of shots of the job done. Having prepared the weekend before by cracking all the bolts and dismantling the hubs and discs the Brake Kit from PNM went straight in no bother. The bleed was a mess due to mis-aligned seal on the bleed kit :oops: only time will tell on the paint work :oops:

Old vs New

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New in place

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Last edited by Hawaiis0 on Fri Sep 22, 2017 21:44, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New comer - Progress (edit)

Post by Hawaiis0 »

I have been tinkering again and have come across the reason for our poor performing tail lights. I believe the problem lies not with the old incandescent bulbs but with the quality of the reflectors in the unit.

You can see below that there is almost no rear reflector to amplify the light intensity due to poor silvering of the bulb cavities. Merely 80's spray paint technology.

Image

I have a few ideas on how to improve this and will post again as I play :D :D
Last edited by Hawaiis0 on Fri Sep 22, 2017 21:45, edited 1 time in total.
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