Replacing fuel line, 87 SE

[gusexcel]

I have searched but only gotten partial answers.

Has anyone replaced the entire fuel line?

I am thinking I might be able to cut it and fish the new one through with the old one, but it is hard to tell how many clips are there.

These are my worst case thoughts:

Remove the exhaust to be able to reach into backbone

lift or remove fuel tank to get to where the fuel line enters the boot area.

We have E10 [ethanol]fuel here, and I am concerned the plastic will not hold up long term, as it eats many plastics

I found a black nylon covered ss braided line that is the same diameter as the oem, and fittings to run to the carbs the same way as factory so other than clunkier fittings, it should look 'stock'


If anyone has done it and found any tricks, advice is welcome

[Pete Boole]

You have to get past the prop-shaft to reach the clips inside the tunnel. I can't quite remember whether you can get your hands in with the prop in-situ.

Pete

[gusexcel]

It 'looks' like if I remove the center exhaust I can reach most things. Hardest part looks to be the entrance into the boot area

[pistolpete]

So two questions. Does the move to E10 fuel give us an issue with the fuel pipe. I thought I had read on here, it was Ok.
Secondly I have got the black outer layer splitting and falling off around the carb, is this an issue if so can it be partly replaced or is it time to do the whole thing

[gusexcel]

Well, I never liked that yellow plastic line at all. The black cover splitting off looks like hell. Ethanol eats all sorts of stuff, and wreaks havoc on old small engines[lawn mowers and the like] so I fell it ought to be replaced I don't really want a joint underneath the car, although the part where it gets hot is where I would be concerned .

I am waiting for some JIC to BSP fittings to come before I start since it is still mobile.

[gusexcel]

So it can be done

remove center silencer and rear Y pipe

unbolt rear propshaft flange

Make a couple tools to push the hose out of the rearmost clip

swear profusely

The SS hose I chose is exactly the size of the original, but won't go through the grommets

I pulled the old hose out from the front after cutting it from the shutoff valve, and using a string I was able to pull the new one through.

I still have to pull it down into the clips, and perhaps add some new ones since it is difficult to deal with any damage or displaced clips in situ.
I will come up with a replacement for the grommets

I have some pics I will post later

[Pete Boole]

Do you just need to wrap some tape around the end of the new hose to make the braid slip through? Maybe use some rubber grease as well. You could always use a step-drill to enlarge the hole slightly and use a slightly bigger grommet. What sort of hose fittings are you using?

Pete

[gusexcel]

The hose itself is fine but the tape[required to keep it from flaring out]] and or the flaring out of the braid makes it too large to fit through the opening. It looks like nylon spiral wrap will replace the grommets adequately

I am using AN/JIC fittings. In fact the fitting on the fuel cut off valve is a -6 fitting where I was expecting BSPP

I will post a list of the parts that I used when I am done.

[gusexcel]

Gee my tablet has a crummy camera, but my iphone battery has blowed up

I will get a list together at some point of all the parts I used

I will suggest using steel fittings for the line that you cannot remove from the car. Wrecked two fittings because it is difficult to get everything together when not in a vise with the right tools

I have made a ton of lines with steel fittings and never messed up, but two in a row.

I am waiting for more fittings to finish the boot plumbing.

This is an stainless braided teflon line with a black nylon outer braid. I used the nylon spiral wrap to protect it where it would rub on the carb, and down below where it runs through the chassis

[gusexcel]

Cut the line in the boot, fished a string through a barb fitting and a small washer, tied a knot in it





A piece of 1/4 rod with a 90 bend to sneak in and push the original line out of the clip. It is the only clip you cannot reach by hand. I was not able to get the new line back in the clip




I epoxied a ty wrap base to the chassis[after cleanging] a few inches forward of the last clip. Over kill I think, as the battery cable and fuel line really cannot get in any trouble here.



Tools to get at that last clip. Bent sheet metal was too flexible to push up on the line

black spiral wrap where line passes through the chassis. Really protects the chassis more than the line

[gusexcel]

Except for the rear most tunnel clip the new hose popped right into the clips. I somehow misplaced one of the forward riveted clips, but it is a common item.Fishing the line was actually easier than I thought, i thought the bulkhead under the tank was further forward but realized I could reach it with my fingers after getting into it. The only place you cannot get to is above the diff torque bracket, and it probably would have found the right way through in a couple tries without the string.

[gusexcel]

Parts list

AEROFLOW 250 Series PTFE (Teflon) Black Nylon Braided Hose × 1
-6an / 4.5M
$89.95
AEROFLOW 200 Series (PTFE) Hose Ends × 5
-6an Black / Straight


$49.75

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1 ... UTF8&psc=1
-6AN to 12x1.25 mm adapter for carbs[x2]$9.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BS ... UTF8&psc=1
-6 T $12.98
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752 ... UTF8&psc=1
-6 rt angle$9.59

boot pieces not used yet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MG ... UTF8&psc=1
-6AN[JIC] to 1/4 BSPP $10.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4 ... UTF8&psc=1
black 14mm banjo $19.68


The hose was enough for the front to back run and the carbs with ~1 meter left over, but will need more for the boot

There are some more fittings[right angle and such] coming for the boot, but I have not done that yet. I used two steel/ zinc plated fittings from Mcmaster Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/52515K44/ for the reasons mentioned

[gusexcel]

The original line is only, I think, 1/4 ID
One could downsize the parts at the carb end to -4 [4AN] and get the lines to align more like factory, shorter rear hose, lines a little bit closer together

[DavidOliver]

For UK Forum members.
Can we set up a parts requirement and UK supplier as a complete kit for the UK territory.
It would be a shame to have to import separately from the USA.

Dave the cog.

[gusexcel]

Dave

I am sure that is possible, in fact the majority of the black stainless braided stuff came out of Australia, once you get the full parts list it is not that difficult to change sources