Passenger Window, Front Caliper

[MalcolmH]

OK.. now I know a new rad fan is needed (Thanks to all), ideas welcomed on my next 2 issues!!

Window
Both windows worked fine my first week with the car. And from past experience, was careful not to open too far! Then a couple of Thursdays ago (VERY hot day) both failed, & ended-up stuck shut. The passenger side - which had stuck half-open - suddenly randomly closed of its own accord, then stayed shut. Not so much as a click from either-side switches.

I went up behind both footwell panels & changed fuses, and driver's side now works perfectly. The passenger switch now clicks - just once - when pressed from either door, but window doesn't budge. Tried gently encouraging the glass down with a rubber glove while pressing the switch, but no go. Not taken door card off, but managed to hoik the switch up & out, unplugged & replugged it. Looked fine - just a switch (about 6 pins, if I recall?).

Could it be just the switch that's gone? Seem to be a few, quite cheap, on eBay. Or does it sound more like the lifter's stuck, or a relay?

Caliper
I think the front nearside caliper might be sticking. I'll be honest - I know nothing about calipers, never even inspected one - but what's leading me to think that is;

• Excessive brake dust that wheel only
  When braking from reasonable speed, often pulls to left
  Car 'feels' a bit like it's being held back

As I've no brake knowledge, is there any point my jacking-up & removing the wheel to look? Or wait till I need to get a proper mechanic in, for other jobs? Not sure I'd even know how to tell if it's stuck. But if that's easy to tell once the wheel's off - and if freeing-up might be straightforward - I'm happy having a go providing I knew what to do.

Any know-how appreciated.

[Alan_M]

Calliper - for basic check no need to remove wheel, just jack up and spin the wheel - should spin relatively freely, if it doesn’t probably sticking calliper. You can also compare to the other side. Also after a drive feel how hot the wheel is and compare to the others. A hot wheel would also suggest a sticking calliper.

[rbgosling]

On the brake, I wouldn't even bother taking the wheel off to start with. Just jack the car up and see if the wheel spins freely. Then (with the engine on) give a good push on the brake pedal, release, and immediately check again if the wheel spins freely.

If it spins freely both times, your brakes aren't sticking.

If it spins fine the first time, but doesn't spin freely the second time, the brake is mostly ok but is slow to release. Might be a partial blockage caused by an old brake hose, that isn't letting the brake fluid past freely.

If it's stiff both times, does it make a grinding sound? If so, then yes, it sounds like the brake is binding. If not, it's more likely to be the bearing, which probably needs some new grease, and/or has been done up too tight.

If it spins freely but only for part of the revolution, you've probably got distorted, unevenly worn, or unevenly corroded brake discs.

[MalcolmH]

Thanks for the tips re the (possible) caliper.

Jacked the car up today. And while doing, noticed it's a lot more brake dust on that wheel than I remembered.

Spun the wheel. Didn't move quite as freely as I'd expected, but it moved - just with a slight constant metallic scrape as it did. I'm not conscious of ever hearing the scrape while driving - though having only had the car a few weeks and my windows refusing to open much of that time, not too sure I would have!!

I didn't do the brake pedal pressing. I've only got the original ancient jack, so didn't want to put much pressure on - or leave it jacked-up for long. But I did jack-up the other front too, to compare. That turned slightly easier - not as free as I expected, and even with that one there was still a very slight scrape. But not as much as the nearside. So I'm not much wiser - other than the discs are possibly corroded as expected? With the old jack, I also found it very hard work getting the wheels high enough to spin. The handle's got quite a wide sweep, making it hard to turn easily while keeping clear of the bodywork.

A mobile mechanic I use is doing some bits soon with my other car. Think I'll leave this for him to look at. He's pretty good with old discs and stuff.

Any thoughts on the window switch?

[AndyC]

It's worth pulling both callipers and freeing them off. If one has got so bad it's sticking then chances are the other will not be great so you'll end up with the "good one" just being the new "bad one" if you don't do them both. I'm not talking of spending £hundreds and having full refurb, just clean sliders, and grease, possibly a seal kit etc.

[Hawaiis0]

Pulling to one side can mean 2 things.

The side it pulls to is stuck on or the other side isn't working.

[Hawaiis0]

Re window lift.

There are 2 lift relays swap them over see what occurs.

Use the driver switch to test the others. Fleabay modern replacements have the correct connector but are larger than the originals so you will need to fettle if go that way.

Originals come from BL maestro amongst others.

[MetBlue]

Ref Windows.
You say it stuck half open, then randomly closed.
That sounds like a dodgy switch or relay not releasing when you let go of the switch (power being left on to the motor even when switch not pressed).
If it does that on the way down, although you think you are stopping half way down, it may be the power is driving to the point the window hams. - then it's very difficult to raise.
You'd only know for certain by removing door card, then sliding the motor arm out of the channel. Window should then be totally free to move up and down by hand.
Tony

[MalcolmH]

Thanks Andy, Stu, Tony... next decent weather day - think I'll take the door card off. See what's lurking behind!

A while since I did that on an Excel. Will have to search the memory bank.

Anyone know if there's still that sheet on here, showing what (& where) the various relays are? I printed it off for my last SE, kept it with the fusebox diagram. But gave it to the guy who bought my last Excel. Was convinced I wouldn't be having another one!

[Excel SA]

Here's the component location diagram you're after:



Neil.

[MalcolmH]

Fantastic... thank you, Neil.

The one I had before just showed the relays. This one's way more comprehensive.

Now I've just got to work out what it all means!!!

[Excel SA]

Pleasure!

Window relays and fuses are normally in the passenger footwell, on the left hand side. Mine are in a box, on a shelf, in my garage

Neil.

[MetBlue]

. Mine are in a box, on a shelf,

That's just tooooooo OCD for me.
Many of my Elite bits are in various jars and plastic containers, scattered around benches, etc(and the floor). For a long while, I could have told you to the exact position where every nut, bolt and widget came from, but recently after 30 years it's become a bit of a blur.
Tony

[MalcolmH]

Having now printed that diagram out, I find it hard to believe how many different bits are up behind that left-hand footwell panel.

I only 'discovered' that panel with my last SE, a '91. I recall being almost upside down, peering & reaching up into it by torchlight (or phone-light, to be exact) when both headlights had failed on a dark evening out.

When I looked again the other day, all I did was change a couple of fuses. Even getting those out involved much sweating & cursing, and I remember thinking "How the hell does anyone - who isn't E.T, with those mega-long fingers - get anywhere near those relays? Let alone do anything with them!"

Not realising - if the drawing's to be believed - I was only looking at the lowest couple. And there's a stack of others (and fuses) above them!!