The Lotus Grand Tourers

A friend bought an Elite and recently took delivery. The first problem to show up is the cable that unlatches the rear hatch is frozen... won't budge. Does anyone have a recommended way to release the hatch without doing any damage to the interior or body in general?

Thanks and Regards,
Tim Engel

This might help Tim...



I guess the multiplying lever (ITEM 35) is likely to get wet on standing as it is below the lower window gutter in the corner of the boot. So the pivots could corrode solid.

I wonder if you apply (flood) a solvent (WD40 /Plus gas) in exactly the same route through which the water got in ...it might (overtime) free off the pivots ..... ?

You might find drain tube ITEM 40 blocked adjacent to the ITEM 35 multiplier..which is likely the cause of the seizure?

Good Luck!

The trick will be in freeing whatever is stuck without doing more damage.

The Esprit Turbo uses a similar type of latch (two, one in each rear corner of the hatch), and the cables are known to break free or freeze-up. For them, the usual solution is to remove the license plate, drill an arm size hole through the transom, then reach in and manually release the latches. I'm hoping for a solution that won't require cutting the hole.

Thanks,
Tim

Try releasing the striker plate from the glass. This may require removing the lower chrome window trim but this can be done without damage by using solvents. This should give access to the striker retaining screws.

Dave the cog.

Dave,
We considered removing the striker plate early on, but fear damaging the delicate piece of trim that, to the best of my knowledge, can't be replaced.

Are replacements available?

Can you expand a little about which solvent to use?

Thanks,
Tim Engel

Hi Tim. The Elite Workshop Manual gives details of trim removal/replacement and refers to Butyl
(Part A075 U 0654Z) and polyurethane adhesive (Part A075 B 6017V). Not sure this info is relevant now, the shelf life day since 1979 has probably expired by now.

Dave the cog.

Hi Tim.

Here is what it looks like on my 1974 car:



These two visible "buttons" are threaded inserts made from an alloy like mazak. They are threaded M5. There are no other fasteners behind the anodised trim.





If you grind away (small burr in Dremel?) the central 10mm of the dome, the rear hatch should open, leaving the pointed "striker" still inserted into the lower part of the latch mechanism.

Let us know how you get on!

Pete