First job jobbed - 2 more found !!!

[MetBlue]

Front suspension strip down half way there - Well just over:
Two "sticky" areas. ARB shims are rusted onto the ARB and I can't yet persuade to separate from the off side lower link. It is at least all off the car though and near side is free, so easier to work on.
Other problem I suspect is very common - I can't get the lower shock bolt to come out . Will probably start attacking with the cutting disc next to break the shock away and get at the inner tube that is obviously rusted to the bolt. Hopefully a bit of heat - We'll see.
Good news is this is a job long overdue. The lower link inner bush is certainly past it, and the shock at best 50% full of oil. From fully extended, it offers NO resistance until about half the travel is covered, then some resistance, but no where near as much as the new shock does over it's full travel. Photo below shows the bush and the NOS acquired 18 months ago through the forum.


Tony

[Pete Boole]

How are you going to get the old bush out? I've made press tooling if you're interested.

Pete

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Not a great environmentally responsible method, but if you heat with a heat gun (or blow torch ) they melt and slide out quite easily ...

[MetBlue]

Very close now to fully dismantled.
As the dampers were Donald Ducked, I drilled through the lower eye in two rows to get the damper out of the way, then cut through the bolt in two places with a hacksaw. New bolts in this position seems a very worthwhile move.
To get the bushes out, I've gone brutal with an M12 threaded bar, suitable size socket to draw the inner tube into and just forced the inner out, then cut through the rubber to peal that out, then half saw cut into the outer bush wall to release. Did think about burning out the rubber, but got very smelly.

Summary on the dampers is that the were working 50% !!.
Off side had probably lost half it's oil. On both compression and rebound, there was Half travel with no resistance, then half travel with at least some resistance.
Near side was no resistance at all under the full compression travel, but pretty good resistance on the rebound over full travel.

Definitely long over due being replaced.

Tony

[barker_001]

Sounds like you're well on your way with the bushes Tony. It's something I want to look at on mine fairly soon, but my local specialist / MOT man says there's not a lot wrong with what's on there - although I'm sure some fresh rubber / polybushes would improve things. Can I ask what you are painting the suspension components with before refitting them? My ARB in particular is quite rusty so I want to use something that will flex with the bar rather than flake off.

[Alan_M]

Hi Bryan. I would just use POR15 paint over their metal prep. Or even Smoothrite paint. Wouldn’t powder coat as once it cracks rust just travels under it and it will come off in small sheets.

[MetBlue]

Can I ask what you are painting the suspension components with before refitting them?

Bryan, For expediency I went with everything shot blast and powder coated. I figure that if coil springs can hold the finish for a reasonable time, then the ARB should also - I guess in a years time, I'll take a look and see what condition the paint is in. The longest part for me was trying to protect the area's I didn't want painted, then getting rid of every last trace of Shot, especially on the brake calipers.
Given more time, I might have gone with POR15 as Alan suggested, but I would like the car back on the road early next year, and I know how long these things can take me.

Before and after photo's :





I'll be able to re-assemble to car in my Sunday best

Tony

[Alan_M]

Looking good

My Sunday best consists of oily overalls, or more recently paint covered overalls

[MetBlue]

Given more time, I might have gone with POR15 as Alan suggested, but I would like the car back on the road early next year, and I know how long these things can take me.

Well that plan went west

With the cold spell in December stopping all outside work, then Christmas duties, all I've succeeded in doing is getting the front suspension all built up, car back down on the wheels and the pedal box back in ( Don't want to be doing that again !!). Cars definitely sitting a lot higher at the front now, but I think I need to loosen then retighten the main bolts again with the full weight of the car on the suspension. I tightened them with a jack under the lower link, but I've since realised that the loading distance from the lower link pivot point is important ( Moment arms and lever lengths etc - 1st year degree statics, but I've had a few beers since then ). With the weight at the wheel, longer lever arm than just the lower link, so will compress the spring a little more. - Will probably book an hour on the ramp when the cars MOTed and get them to measure the camber at the same time.

Then project creep came in when I noticed the bonnet release cable on off side was very rusty and several cable strands were already broken. Fortunately I have a couple of cables from the donor Elite I bought 30 years ago, so with luck, they'll be fitted today and the dash can start to go back in. I've removed and cleaned the bonnet catches also as PO must have thought water was getting into the car via the bolt holes - Huge mass of sealant around them both. I'm doubting this, as both nut plates are stuck to the inner body by sealant, so any water could only have got in via the threads, which I can't see happening, but will still use a small helping of sealant when refitting.

My dilemma now though, is whether to move on to a full dismantling of the rear, or just do the calipers and exhaust, parking the rear bushes and damper until next winter. Probably depends on just how quick i get the inside rebuilt and test that straightened clutch pedal.

Tony

[AndrewWebber]

Tony, if it is anything like the rear overhaul of my Elite it WILL 'grow arms and legs'

Andy

[Hawaiis0]

....

My dilemma now though, is whether to move on to a full dismantling of the rear, or just do the calipers and exhaust, parking the rear bushes and damper until next winter. Probably depends on just how quick i get the inside rebuilt and test that straightened clutch pedal.

Tony

Park it! get it ready for road.

[Pete Boole]

If your back dampers are anything like the fronts I'd do them to maintain the stability of the car. The back brakes don't do much anyway!

Project creep Pete!!

[MetBlue]

Whats the opposite of Project Creep? Project De-scope I guess.
That's where we'd be if I do stall the rear for this winter, The exhaust is a must do ( clamp plate rusted away to nothing) and I have the parts ( well most of them) so likely I'll get the back end up in the air, remove the silencers then see if I can assess damper condition without a full strip out. I know there is a crack in the diff carrier, so if I do strip down, it needs to go all the way.
Tony

[MetBlue]

Finally running again following the front end rebuild , pedal box / Dash. etc
Only been able to go round the block due to no MOT or tax for now, but even on this short hop, Could feel the improvements to suspension and clutch.
The test drive did remind me however that through last summer, car had a tendency to jump out of 1st and occasionally 5th gear, especially when cold. - Got into the habit of holding finger pressure on the gear leaver
I put it down to the MG style Gear gator I fitted.
Removing the fixing ring screws yesterday showed it really wanted to sit best part of 3/4" further forward, so today a plate made up to let it do just that.


Another little job jobbed which should make a big improvement to drivability.

Conclusion on the dilema about rear suspension rebuild or get back on the road, is that I'm going to do the suspension and exhaust, leaving the Diff carrier for maybe next winter. - Weather permitting, I might just start that tomorrow.
Tony

[rbgosling]

Good to be rolling again, even if only briefly!