They lose compression as the rich starting mixture washes the oil away from the upper cylinder where the nikasil has been worn away, as running on the cold start map. Once the oil is added it will restart. Not sure about why it takes a week or so before it will if you don't add the oil though. I've seen this on a few 3.2 and 4.0 AJV8 engines with the nikasil linersMarten wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 11:33Or the opposite? Maybe the engine cranks too fast with loss of compression, and runs of the map with all the settings used for startingrbgosling wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 09:15
Drifting slightly off-topic here, but I'm very curious about the mechanism of this problem. I struggle to see how the liner would affect engine starting. The only thing that occurs to me would be somehow the piston getting stuck in the liner so the engine won't even turn over?
Ignition module maybe
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Re: Ignition module maybe
Of all the things I have lost I think I miss my mind the most...
1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel
1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel
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Re: Ignition module maybe
It did, but there are plenty of engines about still bearing the scares of the period in time when it was available!
Of all the things I have lost I think I miss my mind the most...
1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel
1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel
- rbgosling
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Re: Ignition module maybe
OK, that explanation seems kinda viable. I once had a Volvo 244 that exhibited the same symptoms, maybe that was a similar mechanism.Zaphod wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 16:00They lose compression as the rich starting mixture washes the oil away from the upper cylinder where the nikasil has been worn away, as running on the cold start map. Once the oil is added it will restart. Not sure about why it takes a week or so before it will if you don't add the oil though. I've seen this on a few 3.2 and 4.0 AJV8 engines with the nikasil linersMarten wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 11:33Or the opposite? Maybe the engine cranks too fast with loss of compression, and runs of the map with all the settings used for startingrbgosling wrote: ↑Thu Oct 20, 2022 09:15
Drifting slightly off-topic here, but I'm very curious about the mechanism of this problem. I struggle to see how the liner would affect engine starting. The only thing that occurs to me would be somehow the piston getting stuck in the liner so the engine won't even turn over?
"Farmer" Richard
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
1990 Lotus Excel SE (Lilith)
2022 MG MG5 EV (not due to be a classic for quite a few years...)
2011 Nissan Leaf (Ragly - EV pioneer, must be due to be a classic one day)
Re: Ignition module maybe
perhaps too late but try and unplug the rev limiter and see how that works out. its next to the ab14 ignition module on the os inner arch.
I REALISED YOU CANT LIVE WITHOUT A LOTUS!!! Until now
- Lotus-e-Clan
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Re: Ignition module maybe
That too.
The temperature issue is an ALL aluminium piston/liner machining tolerance versus temperature thing, independent of Nikasil coating. The Nikasil coating thing is the sulphur petrol thing.
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Re: Ignition module maybe
Indeed. However, the engines that had been affected but not enough to stop them working fully are still about and some do exhibit the issue!
Of all the things I have lost I think I miss my mind the most...
1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel
1952 MG TD
1957 MGA 1500
1959 Austin Healey Sprite
1975 MG Midget 1500
1990 Lotus Excel
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Re: Ignition module maybe
I've now convinced myself that it's possibly the fuel pump dying and a dodgy timing light connection, due to the distance from the battery.
Any thoughts lads?
Any thoughts lads?
Re: Ignition module maybe
Have you checked the AB14 to distributor pick-up wire? It has a rubber-insulated two-pin plug located under the airbox usually unsupported. The copper strands of the wire work harden and break. Disconnect the plug and push/pull the bullets out and inspect, a fairly common fault.
Hope this fixes your problem.
https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... 2E0050.htm
Hope this fixes your problem.
https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... 2E0050.htm
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Re: Ignition module maybe
The ignition system is just as far from the battery as anything else.
Conect a decent 50W bulb to the coli to observe that you have decent power when cranking and it's not the ignition switch playing up.
Connect the timing light to the coli power wire and the coil earth.
The fuelpump should chatter a bit when turning on the power and slow down / stop when pressure is reached.
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Re: Ignition module maybe
HC 180.
I've ordered that part so hopefully, that could be it. all the wiring looks fine and is still in good visual condition. tho still no spark?
Has anyone replaced the ignition system? and what with?
I've ordered that part so hopefully, that could be it. all the wiring looks fine and is still in good visual condition. tho still no spark?
Has anyone replaced the ignition system? and what with?
Re: Ignition module maybe
I would pull the connectors out from their rubber housing to confirm, you may not need to replace the pick-up.
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Re: Ignition module maybe
Just ordered the 123 ignition system. Hope this solves the problem.
will update the progress.
will update the progress.
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Re: Ignition module maybe
Alan. That would be a great help, thanks for the offer.