Central locking problems

[DWH]

I've read the other posts where members have had problems with the servos reversing and seen the advice to check mechanical linkages.

But on my car, it wouldn't lock, you could turn the key or use the inside lever and the servos would lock but then immediately reverse and unlock. I've got both door panels off now and found that if I disconnect the passenger side wiring to the servo, the driver's side works correctly BUT similarly, if I disconnect the driver's side wiring to the servo, the passenger side is fine and this is with or without the rods connecting the servo to the mechanism.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks

POST SCRIPT - I've just had another look and with both servos mechanically disconnected from the locking system but both electrically connected, when I move either servo that particular servo activates, but the other servo doesn't move at all. Is there a control box or relay that links them so they work in unison ?

[fueltheburn]

What condition are the beams like on your doors? Do your doors drop slightly.
My doors will lock and then unlock because they are not aligned properly. My door beams need replacing and so the door drops slightly out of alignment. My doors require pulling up and in to lock properly. Item 101 on my glitch list

[DWH]

Door beams are OK as far as I'm aware. There's a couple of mm play at the back end of the door but they lock and unlock ok using the key and inside lever. The problem must be electrical as the fault is there when the servos are disconnected from the rod linkages.

The problem is only evident when both electrical connections are connected, i.e. each servo works correctly when the other servo is electrically disconnected.

I haven't got a wiring diagram to understand how the wiring works....or in this case, doesn't

HEEEEEEEELP !!!!!!! (please)

[tonypoll]

Some years ago I had the same problem: The doors would lock then immediatley unlock.
I removed the door cards and gave the whole locking system of levers & rods a good clean and oil.
After that they worked fine - and have continued to do for for the last 5+ years.

[johnthebass]

Hi David have you checked the various connectors? They can corrode and bingo nothing works etc! My central locking went beserk a while ago but after checking all the other aspects mentioned above it's reached a compromise thus:- the drivers door unlocks but the passenger door doesn't. If I open the passenger door it also opens the drivers door and if I lock the drivers door the passenger door locks as well! Wierd!
John

[DWH]

Thanks John

Apart from the connectors direct to the servos, are there any other connectors or components hidden away ?

Does anyone know what the servos are from in case one/both are knackered ?

Thanks

[DWH]

I've searched the old archived posts and found posts that say that the solenoids are Ford Granada origin. and that the fault cold be in the loom or in the solenoids themselves. I do know that the linkages are not the problem as the solenoids are disconnected from the linkages all together.

The ones on mine don't have the ford logo on, nor the part number that was referred to in the archived posts.

Mine have SWF 403.236 62437700 on them which doesn't look like a ford number to me.



Any idea where these might have come from and where, if they are knackered, I might get 2 more ?

I've googled the part number and come up with Ferrari parts, it was apparently fitted to 328 / Mondial Ferraris....oh joy that just pushes the price up into stupid land !!!

I hope someone can point me in a cheaper direction ?

Thanks

[robertverhey]

Australian Ford Falcons of the era had the same servo, I tried fitting them and while they worked okay, I finally gave up on the tempremental original system, in favour of a modern VDO immobiliser linked to two basic actuators I bought from Jaycar for $A7 a pop. These actuators were mighty powerful compared to the original equipment actuators. Took a weekend to fit it but ever since I've had remote central locking and an immobiliser, hasn't missed a beat. A highly worthwhile mod which is undo-able if next owner is s stickler for originality. Next owner? Ha, not in my lifetime!

Robert

[amarshall]

There is no control unit - the two actuators are connected to each other with the White/Orange and Yellow/Orange wires.

If triggering one actuator doesn't move the other then there are a few possibilities :

a) bad +ve feed or bad earth on one or both - insufficient volts to drive both - check supplies and returns.
b) bad connection between them - check continuity and resistance on the wires mentioned above.
c) physical resistance in one or both actuators resulting in an excess drain on that side - try lubricating inside the boot which covers the push rod.
d) possible shorting elsewhere in the door loom - the bundle which passes through the grommet into the door is prone to wear - check condition of all wires for signs of ageing, wear & shorting.
e) incorrect alignment or "slop" in the connecting rods (I've posted about the pivot point in the door before). Since your problem seems to be independent of the rods, ignore this for now.

[DWH]

Thanks Angus.
So with both actuators unplugged from the door harness, and looking at the door harness connectors front on, should the same coloured wires be in the same position within the connectors ? i.e. should the yellow/orange be top right on both the passenger and driver side etc ? It's clear that someone has had the leads out of the door harness connector on the drivers side and may not have put then back correctly. Also I seem to have continuity between the passenger side white/orange and the drivers side yellow/orange and nothing between the passenger yellow/orange and drivers white/orange. There is continuity between both sides purple and both sides black wires. No obvious breaks as the wires go through the doors.
One member has PM'd me to say there is a relay behind the drivers footwell carpet but I'm not sure which year his car is .
I've taken the carpet side panel off on the drivers side to try and trace the wires but even a monkey would struggle to see where it goes. I'll have another look tomorrow when I'm not so full of chinese food which makes lying upside down in the footwell rather uncomfortable.
Thanks

[amarshall]

The two wires should go straight through with no direct connection to each other (when uplugged from everything else) - continuity between them, when unplugged at both ends, suggests that someone has played with them.

The actuators contain two microswitches so the white and yellow leads are used to put these in parallel to cause both actuator motors to run regardless of which actuator is triggered by mechanical movement.

The white/orange lead should go to the white lead on each actuator and the yellow/orange to the yellow.

Purple in the loom (accessory fused feed direct from battery) should go to red on the actuator (+ve supply) and black to brown (earth).

There are no relays shown on the wiring diagram (it would be odd to have any in the circuit as the actuators need a permanent live) so any relays you do have in the CDL circuits are non-standard and may relate to alarm systems.

[amarshall]

P.S. - having just stripped my spare to see exactly how it's put together - the micro-switches are actually conductive pads on the main gear wheel and the slider which make/break on copper tracks built into the case.


Let's hope I never need to use that spare, now.

[DWH]

Angus, thanks for all your info. I haven't had a chance to look at them today, but hope to find some time tomorrow. Were yours the same as mine or Ford ones ?

As I think the dash has been out by a PO to re-trim it, I'm a bit concerned that some wiring behind it might have got damaged......

[amarshall]

Angus, thanks for all your info. I haven't had a chance to look at them today, but hope to find some time tomorrow. Were yours the same as mine or Ford ones ?

As I think the dash has been out by a PO to re-trim it, I'm a bit concerned that some wiring behind it might have got damaged......

Same as yours and my spare was in the Lotus parts sale a couple of years ago. Same part, Lotus box.

[DWH]

I'm totally bemused now having been checking the wiring with a multimeter for over an hour.

The drivers side harness connector had the white/orange and the yellow orange round the wrong way. Looked like a PO modification as wiring is fairly mangled.

There is no continuity between the same coloured wires from the different sides (passenger's and driver's) but there is continuity between the passenger white/orange and the drives side yellow/orange !!!
Also, no continuity between the drivers side white/orange between the harness connector and the cable as it passes from the door the the body. I checked by pushing a needle through the wire and testing from that. Tried 4 different times and NO continuity.

So somewhere behind the dash the passenger white/orange joins the drivers yellow orange and the drivers side white/orange is broken in the door somewhere and the passenger yellow/orange also breaks somewhere.

I'm tempted to run another pair of wires between the two harness connectors. Not my preferred route as it leaves knackered wires in the car, but I don't know where it all goes wrong.

Setting out the electrics doesn't seen to have been a Lotus strength, there are relays and fuses all over the place