Rustproofing door beams

[Simpatico]

Anyone got any handy hints on how to refurb these? While the window frames/motors are out I'd like to stop the rot - amazingly considering the car spent 10 years in a field they exhibit only moderate surface corrosion. I don't think they have been changed as they still show red undercoat overspray like the rest of the unseen parts of the car..


Where is the best place to inject ruststopper/cavity wax? Anything to do to the hinge secions etc? I'm working in the confines of a garage at the moment, is it best to wait until the car is mobile to get the doors fully open?


The doors don't sag at all; is this the only test that they are structurally sound?

[amarshall]

Anyone got any handy hints on how to refurb these? While the window frames/motors are out I'd like to stop the rot - amazingly considering the car spent 10 years in a field they exhibit only moderate surface corrosion. I don't think they have been changed as they still show red undercoat overspray like the rest of the unseen parts of the car..


Where is the best place to inject ruststopper/cavity wax? Anything to do to the hinge secions etc? I'm working in the confines of a garage at the moment, is it best to wait until the car is mobile to get the doors fully open?


The doors don't sag at all; is this the only test that they are structurally sound?

Dropping is an indication that the rot has spread so far they're definitely unsalvageable. I had one that dropped and one that worked fine - but both beams looked ok with the door card removed, but were like doilies on the side that faces the outer door skin. The only way to be really sure is to strip the door and examine every inch.

You could try an initial inspection with the door card off and a mirror though.

As for rustproofing - mine got 3 coats of primer and 6 of hammerite externally, and about 40 pounds of waxoyl internally using aerosols from the open end to make sure it hit the far end. Injecting via the existing bolt holes and access holes in the beam (for lock mechanism etc.) is really the only way it can be done.

If the beams are ok, it's worth drilling into the channel where the hinge pin sits and fitting a grease nipple, roughly half-way up, taking care to ensure it can be accessed with the door open.

[KevW]

I rustpfroofed mine with a 750ml sized aerosol can of Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. It is was easy to use (easier than Waxoyl) and if the blurb is true it's supposed to be perform better than Waxoyl too. It's available online.

I removed the existing paint from the door beams as it was lifting off in sheets and doing nothing other than trapping moisture between it and the steel. It seems the factory just sprayed them with the exterior body colour without using any kind of primer!

I'm off now to take advantage of the sunshine and give the old bus a blast up to Rothbury.

[Simpatico]

You could try an initial inspection with the door card off and a mirror though.

Good idea. In all other respects they are much better than I was expecting

Was going to try Dinitrol or similar in an aerosol as I don't have a compressor (Waxoyl always was dismal, quite how it got a reputation is beyond me)

[bash]

once Id painted mine I filled the void with plumbers expanding foam. that stops the water getting in and its now a composite structure so should be stronger too.

bash

[ttedj]

I think because they aren't level once fitted, any water runs to the front of the beam and sits there - whch was where mine had rusted through worst. Maybe worth putting in 2 small drain holes at the front?

Ted